Yesterday's Tractor Co.
Shop Now View Cart
   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver
Classified Ads
Photo Ads
Tractor Parts

Discussion Forums
Project Journals
Tractor Town
Your Stories
Show & Pull Guide
Events Calendar
Hauling Schedule

Tractor Photos
Implement Photos
Vintage Photos
Help Identify
Parts & Pieces
Stuck & Troubled
Vintage Ads
Community Album
Photo Ad Archives

Research & Info
Tractor Registry
Tip of the Day
Safety Cartoons
Tractor Values
Serial Numbers
Tune-Up Guide
Paint Codes
List Prices
Production Nbrs
Tune-Up Specs
Torque Values
3-Point Specs

Tractor Games
Just For Kids
Virtual Show
Museum Guide
Memorial Page
Feedback Form

Yesterday's Tractors Facebook Page

Related Sites
Tractor Shed
Ford 8N/9N Club
Today's Tractors
Garden Tractors
Classic Trucks
Kountry Life
Discussion Forum

Body Filler question

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author  [Modern View]
Daniel H.

07-20-2010 21:23:41

Report to Moderator

I need to repair a small dent in the nose of my Farmall Cub's hood before I paint. I have it stripped to bare steel. Should I apply the Bondo before or after the primer? I am using PPG DPLF epoxy primer. Thanks.

[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
Rod (NH)

07-21-2010 05:25:52

Report to Moderator
 Re: Body Filler question in reply to Daniel H., 07-20-2010 21:23:41  
Either, as long as you are using an epoxy. I personally prefer epoxy first, then filler but many prefer filler first instead. If you were using any primer other than epoxy, I'd definitely put the filler first. See PPG's filler instructions here regarding epoxy dry time before applying filler (2 coats epoxy = 16 hrs dry before filler). I also like to complete any filler application within the epoxy time window (7 days max for DPLF), even though the epoxy gets a scratch first. I don't know if there is any chemical bond assist in doing that but it doesn't harm anything and might help. I haven't had a problem with adhesion between the filler and epoxy, even years later.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Rod (NH)

07-21-2010 07:26:58

Report to Moderator
 Re: Body Filler question in reply to Rod (NH), 07-21-2010 05:25:52  
PS: After the filler work is completed and leveled to my satisfaction, I always spot the filled area with another coat of epoxy before proceeding with a surfacer or topcoat. Polyester fillers absorb moisture and I like to have that overcoat of epoxy to provide additional moisture protection in that area. In addition, if you are not applying a surfacer, that spotting of epoxy provides a uniform underlying color for the topcoat.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Daniel H.

07-21-2010 08:37:32

Report to Moderator
 Re: Body Filler question in reply to Rod (NH), 07-21-2010 07:26:58  
I will be way over the 7 day window before I am ready to top coat, so i had planned to scuff and apply another coat of epoxy just before topcaoting. In fact, I am thinking of assembling and running the tractor before topcoating, as I have had every bolt out of this tractor and would like to find any mechanical problems before topcoating. Then I would pull the hood and wheels, scuff it, wipe it with wax and grease remover and then lay down the red. What do you think? Also, is a surfacer really necessary? I want it to look good, but not "over done". There are no rust pits on the sheet metal.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Rod (NH)

07-21-2010 15:55:37

Report to Moderator
 Re: Body Filler question in reply to Daniel H., 07-21-2010 08:37:32  
I believe that the use of a surfacer on cast items is a waste of effort and money since that type of surface is naturally rough to a certain extent. Whether you should use one on the sheetmetal depends on how smooth the surface actually is after your bodywork and application of the epoxy. Generally, you'd want to use a surfacer on the sheetmetal. However, I have found if the surface is sandblasted and there are no imperfections other than a typical blast profile, that a surfacer is not needed provided the epoxy application (two coats) flows well and is nice and smooth. If there are any imperfection or roughness that is courser that a 360/400 grit sandscratch, then a surfacer should be used. When in doubt, always use a surfacer within the epoxy window and final sand with 360/400 grit. That way, you will have prepared the surface best for a smooth, high-gloss topcoat finish.

My preference is always to prepare and finally paint all parts individually, not just the sheetmetal, except for a bare chassis. That's the only way to properly cover the backsides of the many items that are attached to a tractor. Or even get a decent coverage of any areas of the main chassis that are partially or completely blocked by attached components. Some don't go to that trouble but that's up to you.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
El Toro

07-21-2010 09:27:44

Report to Moderator
 Re: Body Filler question in reply to Daniel H., 07-21-2010 08:37:32  

I think the top coat will adhere better using a surfacer. Hal
PS: I used it on this garden tractor.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]

07-21-2010 17:39:37

Report to Moderator
 Re: Body Filler question in reply to El Toro, 07-21-2010 09:27:44  
I always use a surfacer on sheet metal, except for things like battery boxes, provided they come out smooth, so the next sentence is immaterial, to me anyway. But, the very best bond, in my unproven opinion is between epoxy and topcoat, due to the adhesion of the topcoat applied wet on wet. Some use a second epoxy application over surfacer and then topcoat. Whether that is needed, I don't know, and as yet I haven't tried it.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:

Fast Shipping!  Most of our stocked parts ship within 24 hours (M-Th). Expedited shipping available, just call! Most prices for parts and manuals are below our competitors. Compare our super low shipping rates! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor. We are a company you can trust and have generous return policies. Shop Online Today or call our friendly sales staff toll free (800) 853-2651. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums

Copyright © 1997-2016 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters