Pictures of paint work

I have looked at every page under this subheading and read many about the different types of paint. Some like the cheaper alkyd enamels while the rest dislike. Some suggest the higher ends, even on a working tractor, due tp the superior fluid resistance form gas/diesel/oil. While I can see both sides of the coin, I am, as my name implies, very much confused. What I havent seen much , in this forum are pictures. Could someone who has picture of their painted tractor, please post them. If possible I would like to see pictures after being painted and then how that paint job has faired. How long has it been since the paint job? Working tractor or show queen? Stored inside or out? Undercover or not? If this is to much, or the mods think unreasonable please delet this post.
Thanks

Pictures won't show anything because you can't see the detail, good or bad. Side by side you won't be able to tell in a picture, the difference between a $30/gallon alkyd enamel and a $300/gallon urethane base/clear. In the hands of a skilled painter there may not be a lot of difference in person either. But the urethane finish will be around when the alkyd finish is dead and gone, unless the owner waxes it once every two weeks if outside, then eventually the topcoat will be down to the primer. Alkyd enamel, the cheapest paint will hold up if kept inside all the time. But, alkyd enamel has no UV resistance so it will fade outside requiring repeated waxing. I used to wax my car and truck a couple of times a year. With base/clear, they simply do not need it, as long as they are washed frequently, and I keep all the crud off of the finish. Acrylic enamel will last somewhat longer because it has some UV resistance, the single stage urethanes are better. The longest lasting paint is base coat/clear coat urethane, because of the UV resistance in the clear. The best way to prevent damage from fuel is to be careful filling, and to wash off any spills immediately. While the urethanes are more resistant, they are not immune -- the reason to use urethane is the durablility of the paint, in terms of fade resistance.

Check the 8N-9N section of this board. Seems all of us N owners are proud of our tractors, and work. In my case, I have not done anything other than assemble mine from a basket case. It still needs body work, and paint. I plan to use mine for some time after making it pretty, and that will determine what finish I use. Apparently the "show requirements" for tractors is not that of automobiles, at least not yet. If it(auto) is a restoration, then like paint is used to refinish it. If it is a the "resto-rod", then any finish/color can be used. If you are in keeping with an original appearance, but want a non standard color, you may be frowned on by some, and cherished by others. With the tractors, we seem to stay with the factory color, while going with a modern paint in most cases. As you see on most tractors, the paint is faded. Some were painted with a synthetic or alkyd enamel at the factory, and others were painted with an acrylic enamel. Over the years, additives have been produced to give a better quality to each of these paints. There are additives for each that will include a UV screen, as well as making the finish harder. This makes the finish last longer, and not as impervious to the acts of nature. As for the urethanes and epoxy's, they are very good paints, last a long time, and look real nice when finished. Unfortunately, if you go by the statements by the manufacturers, and EPA, the product is not nice to handle. It is supposed to be better for the environment than anything we have had in the past, but deadly to us.... When using these products, it is suggested that you use disposable coveralls, rubber/plastic gloves, shoe/boot covers, a hood and face cover, goggles, as well as an air supplied respirator. Didn't need all of that when we had good old lacquer, and the earlier acrylic enamels. The acrylic enamel did require some special handling when the additives were used though, but did not seem as hazardous. Many who do their own painting have less than desirable places to paint, and must buff the finish to get rid of dirt, dust, or bugs. When you buff, it changes the appearance of the finish. If not done right, the finish or clear coat can be buffed through, and re-paint is needed... There is so much more, and I have put too much in a short reply already. Like I said, we "N" owners have a few shots, and some with details on the finish, and how it was obtained. If all else fails, it can be taken to someone like me who does it everyday (for most of the last 41 years).

Really nothing to be confused about. You get what you pay for. Let your wallet be your guide. If you want a show quality tractor it will cost you. If you want a working tractor that you don't care what it looks like ,paint it with a brush.This one was painted with PPG Omni -Base Clear two years ago.

Thanks. I didnt know you wouldn't be able to see the difference in the paint from a picture. Good to know. I have a tractor thats just a working girl but want her to look nice for a while. I will be painting outside under a leanto that will be tarped off to make a temp. spray booth. The differnt types of paint are confusing to me. I have painted with oils and latex, mostly house painting with sprayers, and 1 truck. I dont have, or doubt I could obtain a fresh air system. So that leaves out a lot of paint correct? Or just the hardner for paint? What do you suggest?What would be the best paint system with out having to use a fresh air system?

Acrylic enamel without hardener. It has enough UV protection to cause it to last for a while if outside. DuPont Centari or PPG Delstar (if it is still available) are two of the better ones. At the other end of the scale are PPG Omni MAE and DuPont Nason. Isocyanates are in the hardener, requiring supplied air. Acrylic enamel does not require hardener so a charcoal mask is sufficient. Go to either the PPG or DuPont web sites -- you will find instructions, including primers, etc for these paints. There are also other manufacturers. Avoid alkyd enamel if you want it to last. One exception is that there is such a thing as "acrylic modified" alkyd enamel. This is alkyd enamel with some added acrylic properties, including UV protection. Acrylic enamel is better, but the acrylic properties make the acrylic modified alkyd better than straight alkyd. You did not say what brand of tractor you have--some of the tractor dealers paint "may" be the acrylic modified version. It may or may not say so on the can. Otherwise have acrylic enamel mixed. The main disadvantage of not using hardener is that if you make a mistake, you have to wait a long time to correct it. With hardener, you can sand and repaint the next day.

You will find the acrylic enamel with the additive to be a decent choice for a working tractor, and still make it look good. Can't safely tell you whether or not to use an air supplied respirator though. We used to use the ones with the charcoal filters in them when we were using the acrylics all the time. I have seen a few painters using them now with the urethanes. I use a supplied air, but mostly because of the urethanes..If the tractor will not be left outside all the time, you can use a single stage paint (no clear coat). If it is going to have to stay outside all the time, especially in an area like I live in, then a two stage (base coat/clear coat) is better. Acrylic enamel and urethane are both available in single and two stage in most colors. I am sure when I do mine it will be single stage acrylic enamel with the hardner. It will look good, and still be a usable tractor without worrying about messing up an expensive job. If you use the "lean to" approach, wet the area down inside, and outside to reduce dust being stirred up. It doesn't have to be soaked and muddy, but damp. With any of the paints, you can sand and buff if there are any problems in it. If it's a bad run, or large bits of debris, it is usually better to just sand and re-paint that section. There are so many things to expect, and go over it is hard to cover in a small message. Do a search on this site for paint or body work, and read all the articles you can. There should be a LOT of them! By all means, if there are questions after reading, ask them. I for one don't mind answering them, but prefer the "student" take the initiative to read what has already been posted. Not being a butt, but trying to avoid a lot of repetition. Most of all, if this is a first job for you, or anyone else, do not expect it to be perfect, or even close. Even those of us who do it as a job have trouble sometimes. If you do get it perfect the first time, enjoy it, the next one probably won't be....

ken, here are some pics of what you are looking for. here is my opinion on paints, (and i own a body shop) if you have never painted before, and want to practice, by all means go with the alkyd enamels. they are very in-expensive, you will learn how to mix, and spray to "get in the game". are they as good a product as the highlines, no, of course not. will you get satisfactory results? if you take your time, you can get good results. does the cheaper paint last? keep it sheeded when not in use and it will last a long time. ok heres a few tractors
farmall cub in farm and fleet alkyd, with valspar hardener, rust-oleum silver on the wheels, with hardener. painted prolly 10 years ago
<a href="http://s121.photobucket.com/albums/o234/glennster_01/?action=view&current=tractorpics001.jpg" target="_blank"></a>
42 m painted in f/fleet,same as cub
<a href="http://s121.photobucket.com/albums/o234/glennster_01/?action=view&current=tractorpics003.jpg" target="_blank"></a>
here is a jd 301 hood in big r's mystic brank alkyd(soy bean based paint)
<a href="http://s121.photobucket.com/albums/o234/glennster_01/?action=view&current=DCP01895.jpg" target="_blank"></a>
<a href="http://s121.photobucket.com/albums/o234/glennster_01/?action=view&current=tractorpics024.jpg" target="_blank"></a>
here is the 301 with the painted hood and front installed.
here is a 49 m i just painted, crossfire urethane (single stage from napa) base/clear on wheels)
<a href="http://s121.photobucket.com/albums/o234/glennster_01/?action=view&current=DCP02454.jpg" target="_blank"></a>
here is the 42 m last year on the sickle mower
<a href="http://s121.photobucket.com/albums/o234/glennster_01/?action=view&current=DSCF1593.jpg" target="_blank"></a>
here is the cub mowin, its real dirty
<a href="http://s121.photobucket.com/albums/o234/glennster_01/?action=view&current=DCP01976.jpg" target="_blank"></a>
the alkyds will prolly run 100 to 150 in materials. the urethanes in a single stage, prolly around 450 to 600. i am speaking of paint, reducers, hardners, sealers, primers, sandpaper, body filler ect.
now if you really want to flip some coin, here is a del sol we painted for a customers daughter. this is a house of colors custom candy fushia tri coat pearl. lookin at somewhere in the neighborhood of 2000 to 2500 in just materials. between base coats, pearls and clears, there are 12 coats of paint on this little stinker.
<a href="http://s121.photobucket.com/albums/o234/glennster_01/?action=view&current=DCP02194.jpg" target="_blank"></a>
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Glen, Thanks for the pics. The alkyds look great. My tractor is a MF135, and stays cover in the leanto off the barn. I may go that route. A friend painted his tractor, (he works at a paint store) he used an industrial urethane, or poly-urethane. He said it wasnt expensive, and they could match any color. He said it was a real thick paint. Great for painting outdoors,as contaminates were very hard to notice. He mentioned a 2.0 tip? beacuase of the thickness of the paint? I'll do some more research. Thanks again guys.

So as not to confuse Kenyfoozed any further: Acrylic enamel with additive -- there is no such thing unless you are adding hardener -- he doesn't want hardener because the isocynates are in the hardener and require supplied air, which he does not wish to purchase for only one tractor. Urethanes MUST have the "additive" which is hardener, they will not cure without it. Acrylic enamel and alkyd enamel can be used with or without hardener. Charcoal masks are good for alkyd enamel and acrylic enamel WITHOUT hardener. The hardener used in urethanes requires supplied air. You use supplied air because of the hardener added to the urethane, not because of the urethane itself. You should do the same for acrylic enamel or even alkyd enamel. Urethane itself does not contain iso's, but without hardener it is worthless. The painters in professional body shops can be seen using charcoal masks with urethane PROVIDED they have a way to measure the contaminants in the air, have a regular schedule for changing the charcoal filters, and are likely using a $$$$$ downdraft paint both. Us amatures have no way to do that, and repeated (maybe only one time) use of charcoal masks with iso's can make us very sick.

My reference to additive was for the hardeners used in each of the various paints. All of the paints use the additives to make the paint harden, setup, etc. This also makes them more durable, and more resistant to the climates, and products they may come in contact with, and be detrimental to the finish. These products also enhance the gloss of some of the finishes. In the early 70's when DuPont intorduced the 792s, it was touted as the "Wait Lifter" with a little "Muscle man" lifting weights. It made the Acrylic Enamel dry faster, but also harder and more impervious to the weather and chemicals. Another advantage was that the faster setup(cure), meant it could be taped for two tone sooner, or if a problem arose, sanded and recoated, or buffed. A short time later, 793s was introduced, and had better properties to include better flow reducing the orange peel affect, while still allowing the paint to cure faster, and still having the properties of the 792s. From there, it seemed DuPont became a bit stagnant in the enamels department, but continued to move forward with sealers, and clear coats. It seemed to me they were a little slow in getting the urethane based products to market, and lost a lot of their following to these other companies. DuPont had their Imron Poly-Urethane which remains a popular commercial paint today, but was not a good selection for auto use. Ok, too much on history. You can find the pictures like you want, and Glen has posted a few, of the results, and how they were obtained. As for how these hold up, each job will have a number of variables, even when the same products are obtained. You'll have to be the judge. If nothing else, find out where the tractors are showing, and visit these meets. Ask questions, folks like to brag about what they've done, and how. I have a lot of folks drop by to show off their work. If they just want to show it, and be proud, I let'em even when it's rougher than a night in jail. If they ask for help or suggestions, then I'll critique the work "some", and offer suggestions.

"My reference to additive was for the hardeners used in each of the various paints. All of the paints use the additives to make the paint harden, setup, etc."

All of the paints do NOT use hardener. Alkyd enamel and acrylic enamel CAN use hardener, but don't have to. The original post asked for a paint that could be used without adding iso's. I answered that question.

Sorry to have mis-read his later posts. Not sure where you have gained your experience, but I appreciate you taking the time to make sure you have corrected me in every sense I made a mistake. I'll go back to painting Bikes now, and leave the tractor painting alone.