Is tractor supply john deere green good restoration paint?

Just wondering if john deere green restoration series is good paint to use? Thanks

No !

Best paint for dollar spent is at the JD dealer.

No Go to John Deere!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Remember, you get what you pay for. I won't touch TSC paint with a 10 ft pole.

yes, but it is made by the same company with the same ingridients?

TSC paint fades terribly take it from someone that learned the hard way!!! Buy DUPONT car paint or comparable car paint if you want it to last.
Dustin IL

JD paint and TSC paint are both alkyd enamel. That is the lowest quality and cheapest paint you can buy. But, I imagine the JD paint is better than TSC. Major brands of paint, PPG, DuPont, etc, particularly the urethanes are much longer lasting and more durable than alkyd enamel. Acrylic enamel is a little cheaper than urethane and like alkyd can be used without hardener, which requires a supplied air breathing system. You pay for what you get.

The restoration paint series by Valspar is the same paint as the OEM Valspar sells to the JD dealer, CaseIH dealer, New Holland dealer, and the MF and AC colors for AGCO. I said the restoration series only!!!

If they sell it to Case-IH, then all those cans "should" say Acrylic Modified Alkyd Enamel -- otherwise it may be just plain alkyd enamel. But, there is a possibility that it is acrylic modified and Valspar does not mention it. I don't usually buy from tractor stores or tractor dealers, because I prefer better paint. I did buy a quart of IH 2150 from the dealer once, just to match PPG to that color. The can just said enamel. I have seen gallon cans of 2150 with the acrylic modified notation, dealer does not handle it anymore, so I have no way of knowing. The JD paint I have seen at the local dealer just says enamel. I don't think that Valspar or the tractor companies really want us to know what they sell, they will just say it is "good" paint. Only way to find out is to call the company, I guess.

You are correct they do not want us to know. Why would they want to give out trade info. For me 35 years of tractor work and the personal contacts along the way were required to determine what paint is what it is. Really we should all be thankful we have numerous choices for our paint needs.

No, it really isn't.

Having worked as a formulating chemist for two fortune 500 paint companies and many years managing finishing operations for companies, two of which supplied components to Deere & CO, I’ll share what I know about the Ag Green & Yellow supplied by Valspar.

The last time I was in a Deere plant was in ‘97 (Des Moines Works) where this same alkyd was applied to small parts such as latches, pins, brackets, etc. Application was via dip tanks followed by touch up with conventional air spray guns and force dried in a convection oven @ 180F. Quite the contrast to what was done on the other side of the complex where entire cotton picker shells were being electrocoated in a cathodic acrylic e-coat tank the size of a swimming pool.

The Ag Yellow and Green, whether bought from Deere or Case/IH dealers are the same animal, a low end soya alkyd product . It does not contain an acrylic copolymer, whereas the better performing Case/IH “Gloss Red “ does. It has one distinct advantage, when applied over a less than perfect oil free / smut free surface, it will have greater adhesion properties than acrylic modified alkyds, acrylics, urethanes, polyesters and so forth. This class of medium to long chain alkyds will “wet out” over oil and smut laden surfaces where the other’s cannot due to surface tension and chemically reactive incompatibilities. The use of hardeners is apparently a moot point as there is really nothing for the isocyanate to react with that will result in a perceivable difference.

Currently I operate a modest shop and have had quite a few Deere tractors in the past year. We have used the Deere Green & Yellow from both Deere and Case/IH only to find them alike. We no longer use either due to quality and productivity concerns. In their place we use an industrial catalyzed urethane topcoat applied over a mil spec epoxy primer. The gloss retention is equivalent to the automotive version for half the cost.

Thanks for the info -- I am going to save this and copy it to future posts as this subject comes up about once a week. I was not familiar with JD's version of alkyd. Also, you say that Case-IH 2150 is indeed "acrylic modified" alkyd or is that only the later color that goes on tractors produced after about 1980 or so?

The acrylic modified Case/IH Gloss Red I peviously referenced pertains to Case"s "Dura Gard" B17652 rather than the IH 2150.

The following are modified acrylics:

"Dura Gard" B17653 Silver
"Dura Gard" B17657 Power White
"Dura Gard" B90886 Non Glare Black
"Dura Gard" B17672LF Power Red

The 2150 may be of the same family, I will find out and post an update.

Perhaps you can tell me why the clearcoat is falling off my $40,000 dollar Lincoln with its high dollar paint job? Actually its falling off most of the cars in our parking lot of any vehicle that is approaching 10 years old. Ford might as well have saved me a couple thousand on it an painted it with TSC valspar with some hardner in it!

Response for davpal…….

A clear coat will degrade faster than a pigmented finish. To increase flexibility, mar resistance, and chip resistance polyethylene is used as a plasticizer. The plasticizer will dissipate from the cured film as it ages over the years, resulting in less flexible, brittle condition. The finish becomes sensitive to abrasion and impact. If a chip or small pinhole occurs in an aged clear coat, moisture via capillary action, will migrate between the clear coat and the base color coat. The two films then detach.

Considering the vehicle is virtually 10 years old, has been exposed to elements including snow, sand, and salt in the winter, if the only failure is clear coat related, that’s quite an improvement when mid 1980 and older vehicles exposed to the same elements became rust buckets after 5 years.

There are variables to consider; how often a vehicle is washed, waxed or not waxed, garaged during winter creating freeze thaw cycling, & expansion/contraction. these are things that are related to the original adhesion performance.

Not every failure can be pinned on the manufacturer of the vehicle or the coatings, and some things like all of us, are not immortal.

Get Dura-Shield JD Green #4202. It looks good.

I buy it at L&M Fleet.

I've painted a lot of JD tractors with JD paint. I buy Omni MH 168 hardner available at PPG auto paint dealers. Also use the good acylic enamel reducer. Fill the quart cup about 3/4 full of paint ad about 2 oz of hardner and add reducer to the desired viscosity. My uncle had an AR that we did probably 13 years ago that still looks great. It sits out most of the time. No discoloration from gas or antifreeze. And it's way cheaper!!

JD house told me to thin with VM&P Naptha, nothing else. Whether it was JD brand or otherwise, said use naptha

So what is the code for JD Green and Yellow? Where can this be obtained?