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Any luck with Rust Converters or OSHPO?

C

charles todd

Well-known Member
Any luck with Rust Converters or OSHPO?

For combating rust, has anyone used OSPHO or other "rust converters"? After scraping, brushing, and sanding I have used the OSPHO on a few things and it seems to stop rust and takes paint well. My question is should I use it on implements or tractors in place of sand blasting.

Thanks,
Charles
 
I use rust converter for preservation, not restoration. If a metal surface is pitted before before use of rust converter (RC), it will be pitted after. You will still need to sand blast and/or sand prior to refinishing. RC is good for getting into places that are hard to sand blast or grind, especially places that will not be visable anyway. Also, areas that have been treated with RC are extremely difficult to use a cutting torch or to heat; the fumes can make you sick and may possibility be fatal.
 
Like CWH, I use such products for preservation. But, on an implement that is not critical that the paint lasts forever, I would consider them, but not on a tractor -- I would much rather go to the work of removing the rust.
 
I assumed that it would be looked down on for tractor or auto useage. My application would be a Mott 88" flail mower, JD 6' brush cutter, and a "root rake" I am building. I want to use a power brush to clean all scale then prime and paint. I do not want to take the time to completly sand blast these items (small blaster, small air compressor), but I do not want to have rust bleeding thru or blistering in a few years either.

What little I have used it on in the past it seems to do a good job. The directions on OSPHO stated priming is not required and the top coat can be applied directly over OSPHO... I thought priming was always a good idea.

Thanks again,
Charles
 
Not priming is a sales pitch for rust converters. Rust converter or not, I would use epoxy primer. Don't use rust converters on cast -- it is too pourous and later it could lift the paint.
 
Thank you CNKS, I did not know about the use of RC on cast. Makes sense, it is porous and it will soak the RC deep inside. I keep hearing about epoxy primers, but have yet used it. Last time I priced some it was about $200 a gallon.

Charles
 
As stated earlier, Use what ever technique will fill the bill best. I have found that sandblasting isn't always convenient to do and cannot get in behind lap welds etc. Also sanding deeply rusted steel will make it so thin as to be useless. I have found that with OSPHO I have better luck sanding to get down to the surface of the clean steel then use the OSPHO to etch the rust out. I may give a surface a swab, let it set for a couple of hours and then rinse in fresh water. If you have a bunch of rusty fasteners to reuse put them in a plastic container filled with OSPHO enough to cover them. They will etch fairley fast. It's hell on galvanized. Be carful not to let the OSPHO dry in threaded connectors or they will lock up. You will have to resoak them to free them up.
I rinse and let air dry anything I etch with OSPHO because I think the primer sticks better to the etched metal and converted rust than to the black OSPHO residue.
Good LUck
 
I haven't bought any PPG Omni MP 170 in a couple of years. Price now is probably about $80 with catalyst, it was $60-65. You simply do not need the expensive epoxy.
 
I priced this at a local NAPA that carries Martin Senour paints. I hear that M-S is a good quality paint. I also know that NAPA is not the cheapest place either, especially since it is a local owned parts house that is a NAPA dealer.

I bought 1 gallon of Cat Yellow, 1 quart of reducer, and 1 pint of hardener for the grand total of about $80. This was just the standard commercial coating enamel (not arcrylic) , not automotive. I paid too much.

I agree with oldhousehugger25, OSPHO seems to do better when you can sand/grind down to somewhat shiny metal. You think galvanized etched quick, you should see what happens to bright aluminium... :twisted:

Charles
 
Martin Senior is a major paint wholesaler to the auto restoration industry. Their paint is as good as any of its type. It will work fine on anything and hold up well in sunlight. What you probably have is Acrylic Enamel, the standard of the auto industry in the 60's and 70's before base coat clear coat came along in answer to acid rain and faster production times.
Its a good idea to use a decent rersperator spraying that paint as the hardener has some issocyanates in it. There isn't much but its not good for you at all. 2 Part paints like Imron have enough in them to ruin your lungs. Don't worry about MS paints they be fine, probably a lot better than the stuff you get at the tracor dealers.
 
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