Belarus 250as Electrical Questions

RTR

Well-known Member
Got the 250as running well and everything seems to be working except the fuel gauge (probably bad sending unit) and the ammeter (alternator magnetizes a saw blade).

I did check the 3 "wire fuses" under the hood and fixed those with the extra wire that's was store on the fuse.

Questions.....

(1). Is there any other way to check/test the alternator to see what the problem is? I'm thinking gauge but it moves to the left like as expected when the lights are on.

(2). How can I test the fuel sending unit?

(3). Can you convert that fuse panel to accept common fuses and not use the wire type? I ran out of extra wire.
 
Simple way to test the charging system is check battery voltage when not running then check it when running. Battery should be in a the 12.5 range not running and in the 13-14 volt range when running.
As for the fuel gauge the sender is a simple rheostat meaning if you hook up an ohm meter and move it the resistance should go up and down
The fuses yes if you know what amp the wire is you can switch to a normal fuse panel
 
(quoted from post at 21:15:15 04/26/16) Simple way to test the charging system is check battery voltage when not running then check it when running. Battery should be in a the 12.5 range not running and in the 13-14 volt range when running.
As for the fuel gauge the sender is a simple rheostat meaning if you hook up an ohm meter and move it the resistance should go up and down
The fuses yes if you know what amp the wire is you can switch to a normal fuse panel

Old, what I meant is that can I just get a "regular" fuse and use that in the fuse panel that is already there? If so, what type fuse would I get? The factory "wire holders" say 10A and 20A on them, but didn't know what fuse type they are.
 
Not sure what those fuses are that your talking about. If it has what was called an inline fuse holder that should just be the common glass tube type fuse
 
As far as the fuses, try the fuses for a VW bug, have used them for the larger Belarus. Also on your injector pump problem, you should drain it and fill with engine oil, level screw on side of pump as someone told you. But of course pump shouldn't leak out the top, at least the 250 I had didn't. Or, solve your problems and sell to me cheap. Have fun with it.
 
It's leaking out the top because that's where you put the oil in.It's filled up with fuel that needs to be drained out.When this is serviced correctly,which I've tried to explain,the tractor will run better also.
 
You're talking about the ceramic fuses that Belarus used on other machines.The 250 300 series have the replaceable wire fuses.
 
(quoted from post at 01:07:08 04/27/16) You're talking about the ceramic fuses that Belarus used on other machines.The 250 300 series have the replaceable wire fuses.

Yep those wire fuses is what I have. I would rather convert (replace them) with more common blade fuses if that is possible. Is it? One of my wire fuses has the tang broken off and barely contacts to work. I also ran out of extra wire for one of them so converting would be nice.
 
A fuse is a fuse as long as the amps are the same be it a blade type of inline type or the wire type.
 
(quoted from post at 05:15:48 04/27/16) A fuse is a fuse as long as the amps are the same be it a blade type of inline type or the wire type.

That sounds good to me! That's what I was wondering. Just didn't know if that system had to have the wire type or if the panel would accept blade fuses. Is there a name for the size of fuse that fits in that panel? I know the rating is 10 amp and 20 amp but what is the industry standard identification for that size fuse?
 

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