Wisconsin TJD no spark on one cylinder

I have a Wisconsin TJD that stopped running and I can't get it started. After eliminating a lot of things, I discovered I wasn't getting a spark from one side of the distributor. I switched plug wires and still no spark from the same side of distributor so it's not the wires. The distributor cap looks fines with no obvious cracks or fouling. Any ideas what would cause this?
Thanks.
 

With the distributer cap off, turn the engine over slowly (ign. on) and see if the points spark as each lobe of the distributer cam opens them. If not, the point gap may be set to close and one lobe is worn slightly (not making the spark) Reset points and try again.
Ran into this problem on a friends Ferg. 20/85
 
Thanks for your suggestion, and I'll do that, but it appears to me that there is only one lobe on the distributor cam. Since there are two cylinders, this doesn't seem possible, but that's how it looks. The points only open once per revolution of the distributor cam. The motor was running fine a few days ago. I don't see how the lobe could have worn off. I'm really puzzled by this.
 
Its been a long time since i worked on one,but if you have a magneto then both plugs fire at the same time. The magneto turns at engine speed and has only one lobe.Maybe a bad cap or one side of the coil.
 
Your rotor may be the problem. I think both cylinders fire at the same time. I found a video of that engine running and the coil looks to be a regular 12 volt coil with only one high tension wire to the distributor cap. Hal
 
On most 2 cylinder Wisconsin engines, the pistons
go up and down togather...when one is going down
on a power stroke, the other is on an intake
stroke. When one is coming up on a compression
stroke, the other is on an exhaust stroke. On these engines, both plugs fire togather, but one
spark is "wasted" This is NOT TRUE OF THE TJD!
The TJD was a late model and the pistons DON'T go
up and down togather, for, as Wisconsin Motors
says,in it's literature,"More balenced operation"
The TJD use a different distributor, or if Mag.
equiped..a different magneto,from Other 2 cyls.
 
I don"t think both cylinders fire at the same time with a TJD. There are two wires coming out of the distributor cap and two terminals inside the cap. It was my understanding that the THD"s cylinders fired at the same time, but the TJD"s cylinders fire 180 degrees apart. Thanks for the information. Do you have a link to the video?
 
Thanks. That looks exactly like my engine, but on my engine the towers on the distributor are 180 degrees apart. It appears to me, from the video, that the towers on the distributor cap are 90 degrees apart. Here is a picture of my distributor cap. The engine was running fine with this distributor and cap a week ago.
a52338.jpg

a52339.jpg
 
Thanks. The cylinders on my TJD do not appear to be synchronized. There are two posts in the distributor cap. My confusion is that there appears to be only one lobe on the distributor cam. I am attaching a picture. I don't understand how this one lobe opens the points 180 degrees apart as would seem to be necessary to fire the cylinders. I know this works because the engine was running fine a week ago.
a52340.jpg
 
Use a multi meter and see if you have continuity
on the bad side inside the cap to the tower where your plug wire connects. Set the meter on ohms. Hal
 
Those points appear to be open and they're not setting on the lobe where you would set your point gap which is around .020." That rubbing block appears worn. I would install a new set. Hal
 
I set the points at .020 on the wide lobe and it didn't start so I tried setting the points at .020 on the "long" lobe between the flats just to see if it worked. That's the reason the points are open. You're correct that the rubbing block is significantly worn and the points need replaced, however, I am getting good fire from one side (the wide lobe opens the points and fires the cylinder). Your advice is good and I'll try to find new points and maybe even a new distributor. Thanks!
 
You can get points at this number. Hal

1-800-245-0711

PS: Once you have the new points installed reinstall the cap, plug wires & and coil wire then see if the engine will run ok. Make sure you're getting battery voltage to your coil. With the points open and the ignition switch in the on position you should have battery voltage on both small terminals on the coil. If you're not getting any fire to your plugs with the new points take a cotton swab dipped in alcohol and clean the points. Then see if you have fire to your plugs. I would clean the rotor too.
 
You should be able to get your ignition parts from Wilder Motor & Equipment in Louisville, KY at 1-877-945-3373. Hal
 
I would get the same cap shown in the picture, points and a condenser. Put it back together and see if it will run. I still think both plugs fire simultaneously. I know the mag used on those engines does. Hal
 
That probably isn't really the flywheel. I don't know what that gear would be called. Maybe the distributor gear or timing gear?
 
Here's a link showing all those gears used in your engine. It could be the timing gear, but the other gears may be damaged as they're all mated to one another. Hal
PS: Scroll down to Item No24.
Untitled URL Link
 
Thanks. That diagram is very useful to me. I don't know what I'll find when I open it up. Apparently, there is a port clogged because the area didn't seem to be getting any oil. Do you think this is the correct gear? Link attached.

The distributor gear appeared to be undamaged.
Untitled URL Link
 
That gear should have this number on it GB45A2. It looks to be the correct gear. A new gear is $134.00 plus shipping. I would call the seller to see if it has that number on it. You need to check all those gears for wear. They were not getting any oil. Hal
 
I went ahead and ordered the gear from E-bay. I am worried what I'll find when I open it up. All the gears in that area may be damaged.
 
It's going to be costly to repair it. If there's metal particles from the gear teeth you probably need to do a complete teardown. It may be cheaper to buy a replacement engine from smallenginewarehouse. You don't need all that hp on a woodsplitter. I used a 10hp Tecumseh on a splitter I built back in 1982. I just ran it at a fast idle. Hal
a52455.jpg
 
UPDATE - I put in a new "metal" cam gear. The old one that was chewed up was fiber. I finally found the CORRECT distributor cap. (Actually one with four terminals, but with two of them capped.) Everyone who said the one that came on it was wrong was correct. The terminals are supposed to be 90 degrees apart rather than 180 degrees. I got everything back together this morning, and it started immediately and ran smoothly.

Thanks for everyone"s interest and help!
 

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