1650 Hydraulic problem -multiple issues

sonnythomas

Member
Location
Brant, Ill
Oliver 1650.It is and isn't a problem.

End loader bucket wants to tip down after a few minutes. I've had the hydraulic lines off and new couplings and changing things. And then had two more cylinders rebuilt. After I got all installed is when I noticed the bucket tipping down. So got the bright idea of switching holes and the couplings. Presto! No more bucket tipping down.

Edit = I've left the end loader up several feet and with tractor shut off the bucket doesn't tip.

Now, why does the bucket tip down hooked up the opposite way? Has to be internal.

Hydraulic pressure at all times on both lines. What happened, I had both lines off to the lift cylinder. Fired up the tractor and oil poured out of both line - full pressure. Levers not moved to raise or lower end loader. Caught most the oil in big drip pan.
Why is there pressure on both lines? I can see going up or going down, but not both ways at the same time.

Still a problem with hydraulic couplings. I have to relieve pressure on the lines to disconnect or connect. i just loosen the nipple or coupling, both of them. I little oil loss I accept.

Edit = For the couplings on the left side I've color coated pulling the left lever back has the cylinder raise whatever (up) - just like the right lever has the end loader raise.

This post was edited by sonnythomas on 07/26/2023 at 07:23 pm.
 
Just using the remotes (levers). EDit; Even with the tractor shut off moving the remotes/levers does not relieve pressure. I have loosen the hoses to leak off the pressure.

Spoke with a farmer that had something of the same thing, having bleed off hydraulic pressure in order to break coupling and nipple apart. Because of the high pressure only steel valve withstand the pressure. Called John Deere. That valve is $52.00 and tax and I'd need two.
Hey, $52 would nearly pay for 5 gallon of hydraulic fluid. I think I paid $56 and change.

Edit; Some one mentioned a some sort of easy coupling. To break loose a tool would be needed to pull the sleeve back. And to re-install the hose some sort of tool would be needed to push the nipple to over come the pressure....

This post was edited by sonnythomas on 07/27/2023 at 08:14 am.
 
For about $500 or less you can get all the parts needed from Surplus Center to hook up your loader on the Power Beyond system far better than using the tractor's remotes.
 
why not go all out and use a PTO pump and a separate valve bank. more hydraulic capacity and you lower the risk of wearing out the pump in the tractor, loaders put lots of dust, water and other contaminants into the oil. you will like the faster loader with a larger pump.
 

Not understanding you. The hydraulic pump maintains pressure 100% of the time. Even with the tractor shut off. Moving the levers/remotes does not relieve pressure.
 

Not knowing exactly what you're talking about, but I use the PTO for the brush hog. Dual use tractor. What the tractor can go over the brush hog can chew up. The end loader bulldozes anything too big out of the way.

The filter cap dip stick is under the front part of the seat. How does dust and dirt get in the hydraulic oil?
 
The way that Oliver Hydra Lectric works, no, you can't relieve the pressure by moving a lever when it's not
running. It's just the nature of the beast.

What TF is talking about with power beyond is, you take out two pipe plugs, put a plug in a different hole, then
hook two hoses up and run them to a seperate open center loader valve. By doing that, you free up your remotes for
other things and you have the levers for the loader up where they're handier to get to. I don't think you'd have to
search many posts to find a picture and instructions to do it. Seems like somebody posted it again within the last
month or so.
 
On an open center system the pump maintains FLOW continuously and only what pressure it takes to circulate the fluid. Around 200 psi on mine. It
develops whatever pressure it needs to overcome the load. I think working the levers with the engine off will relieve the back pressure.
 
(quoted from post at 15:36:24 07/27/23) On an open center system the pump maintains FLOW continuously and only what pressure it takes to circulate the fluid. Around 200 psi on mine. It
develops whatever pressure it needs to overcome the load. I think working the levers with the engine off will relieve the back pressure.

Pressure is not relieved by working the levers, on a Oliver 1650.

Pressure is so great that you can't push the sleeve back even with the tractor shut off. Hey, fought this from day one. At suggestion I bought the newer couplings and nipples and made things even worse.
Old Pioneer couplings and new Pioneer coupling are just plain different. New Pioneer nipple will fit in older Pioneer coupling but won't let hydraulic fluid pass through.
Older Pioneer nipple has a pin to compress. The new Pioneer nipple has ball bearing.

I didn't notice the difference until I bought a two way cylinder for the brush hog. The cylinder wouldn't extend or retract. I took the cylinder back and was given another. Still didn't work so I re-installed the older Pioneer coupling and nipple - Presto! It worked. So then I looked inside and found the difference.
 
If you plan to keep the tractor, stop this nightmare by using the power beyond and a separate valve. With Hydra
Lectric, you'll be fighting this for the rest of your life if you don't. It's a good tractor, well worth keeping,
but problems involved in using the remotes for a loader if you're using them for something else is their biggest
drawback.
 
(quoted from post at 16:32:54 07/27/23) If you plan to keep the tractor, stop this nightmare by using the power beyond and a separate valve. With Hydra
Lectric, you'll be fighting this for the rest of your life if you don't. It's a good tractor, well worth keeping,
but problems involved in using the remotes for a loader if you're using them for something else is their biggest
drawback.

I like using it for bulldozer :D .
Mowing can be the pits - Tractor so big and then end loader makes for challenge for the corners of a field or down in the timber - knocking a tree to navigate is fun.

Bought at auction for $4500.00. Biggest expense has been the end loader - hoses replaced that look to be as old as the tractor and 3 cylinders rebuilt.

I got to speak the Midwest Hydraulic worker/owner. He said the cylinders are great and must be as old as the tractor. Said newer ones are kind of on the cheap side.

Over size tires front and rear. 7.50 15" on front. 18.4 X 34 on rear.
mvphoto107950.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 16:40:02 07/30/23) Evidently, I don't. Is the 1850 a closed center system?

My brother was a mechanic, big trucks, big everything - back hoes to big track type excavators and he doesn't understand the Oliver hydraulic system.

Tractor shut off, to disconnect the older Pioneer coupling you put a big wrench on the hose side of the coupling and then hit the wrench with a big hammer. Hard to explain - this drives the internal part of the coupling forward, driving the sleeve back so the nipple will come out.

Cast iron bracket machined for the older Pioneer coupling. Coupling has groove for clamps to hold the coupling in the bracket.

mvphoto108025.jpg


The newer Pioneer couplings are poor fit for the bracket.
mvphoto108026.jpg
 

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