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1850 rear end after pic, now hydraulics hot

A

appleweld

Member
Before pics a few posts back. Got the idler shaft and bearings
back in after welding it all up. Fingers crossed on that.
Installed a new hydraulic pump while top was off. ( that was
the reason I took the top off to start with) . To install pump i
remove the cylinder bolts, and sorta just moved the cylinder
down for pump installation clearance with unhooking any
linkages. When I put the top back on, I have steering and can
see the hoses jump when I move a valve lever but the 3-pt
lever only travels half way and the oils gets so hot in five min
you cant touch the filter housing. Could those linkages
gotten crossed up? Ill provide a pic of the unit as it sets now
with hydra-lectric top removed. The 3-pt lever binds itself at
the halfway up point. Does anyone have a pic of this. I can
find one.

cvphoto158475.jpg




cvphoto158476.jpg
 
Is the 3pt all the way up when the lever is only half way then? When it's up all the way with the lever all the way in the up position, you should still be able to lift the arms an inch or so. There's a turn buckle in the linkage to adjust it.
 
Its all the way up when that lever is at half way. But I dont think its the turnbuckle but something inside Ive gotten wrong.
 
Those linkages can flip over way too easy. The first time I did it, I had to take the cover off another tractor to see how they should look. I wish I could just tell you, but it's a rats nest in there.
 
On my 1550 when I first got the cover off and saw the linkage I numbered each joint with a carbide scriber. Could be that square bar is on backwards. As I recall the pivot hole is off center and could affect the motion of the servo valve relative to the lever. Just my guess.
 
What did you use to clean the bore before you installed the bearing? Looks like it worked out well.
 
I used a series of die grinder bits and got down to a polish wheel. All by hand. Took a few hours. Installed the shaft only first to make sure it would spin free without force.
 
We swapped the position of the bar and had a full stroke on the lever. It looked like your pics. Reassembled and works as it should and does not get hot now. Unfortunately Im leaking the oil from the pan so have to take the whole unit back off. I inspected the pan after a weld where the idler shaft was wearing on it, and installed new seal and gaskets on the draft actuator rod. Must have missed something.
 
We swapped the position of the bar and had a full stroke on the lever. It looked like your pics. Reassembled and works as it should and does not get hot now. Unfortunately Im leaking the oil from the pan so have to take the whole unit back off. I inspected the pan after a weld where the idler shaft was wearing on it, and installed new seal and gaskets on the draft actuator rod. Must have missed something.
 
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