Torque On Injection Pump Banjo Bolts

its the brass washers that do the sealing. a 9/16 wrench is all i have ever used. just make them tight.
 
Generally, the washers used with Roosa Masters are black oxide coated steel, and the banjo bolts have to be &%#@ tight to make them seal.

Sorry, I don't have a torque value, but can tell you those bolts are made of some darned good steel to hold up to being tightened as tight as is needed to seal the fittings!
 
With the caveat that I went through Stanadyne school long ago (77-78) and only on the DB and DB2 (only one day once over on the DM pumps). Torque for the injector line bolts says 420 inch pounds. Also, and this may have been the personal perversion of my instructor, he said to look at the washers and one side will be flat, and one side will have a slight convex (hump) place the flat side to the line. I've done it that way since, right or wrong. We were also using OEM parts, not Low Bid Sid after market. If you want to work on your own pump I suggest getting a copy of JD service manual SM-2045, it is more thorough and has better pictures that the Stanadyne manual, it's what I keep to use.
 
The BEST sealing washers I like are the CAV/Lucas/Delphi part # 5936 332C, they are a mild steel washer that will crush a bit similar to copper. Get them snug, then turn 1/2 turn more. Stanadyne copper 11354 is still available, but EXPENSIVE! The black Stanandyne 16225 are extremely hard, and are the worst to get to seal. I still say bull feathers on washer position, they look that way from the stamping process. Both the head and line sealing surfaces are flat, so washer position makes NO difference. Also look closely at each head bolt port, if there's ANY chipping away at the port, the smaller OD steel washers won't seal. That's when I use the larger OD copper washer, to keep from replacing a very expensive hydraulic head..
 

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