NEW INFO. OLIVER OVER HEATING

lenray

Well-known Member
On this Oliver 1650---When it gets hot it will overflow out of the radiator cap. I replaced the cap and it stopped the overflow there, but now I see a small leak out of the water pump housing. Looking in the radiator-I can not see any water movement like it should be circulating. Also no bubbles in the radiator.
Would a bad water pump cause my heating problem???? thinking yes......
How much for a new water pump ????
 
Two things. Have you replaced the radiator cap with the correct pressure-rating replacement? If all is well and the pump is leaking water from the weep hole it may well be on the way out and need repairing or replacing anyway.

So time for investigating that pump.
 
As for your heating problem if the pump is leaking very good chance it is bad or going to be very soon. As for where to buy well this site has them and depending on your model number it could be around $125 or $450
 
I talked to Len on the phone about that this morning. I'm hard pressed to believe that cast impeller would erode. How about you? I've never seen one that was bad. I agree that water coming out the weep hole means the seal is gone and the bearing won't be too far behind. Mine just started leaking on my 1550 a few weeks ago. That's the second time it's happened,but the only way it's caused overheating was when it leaked all the coolant out. Like I told him,I've had to have two radiators re cored and have replaced two others because the tubes were plugged. This tractor is fairly new to him and he doesn't know much history on it.

Do you think the radiator tubes might be plugged like I do?
 
I have seen where when a water pump start to go bad they wobble a bit which slows down coolant flow and that in turn causes them to run hot. I also said something to him about doing a good vinegar flush in one of his other posts which I would do before doing much else
 
I've tried vinegar. Didn't really do much for lime scale. My son suggested Lime Away,but I think it would take an awful lot of it to do any good. I watered down some muriatic acid one time,but that ate a hole in the radiator. If the fan doesn't wiggle by hand,I don't think it would cause enough bypass to have that great an effect on a tractor that isn't being pulled hard for hours on end in hot weather.
 
When the water pump went out on my 500 it wrecked the impeller and housing. There was no mistaking that the bearing was gone. Spewing coolant enough that I was getting wet at the wheel and the fan was wobbling something fierce. Does not sound like the one on lenray's is anywhere near that bad. If it is weeping from the drain, you are in need soon of a new pump anyway, but I don't think that is the root of the problem.

I'll cast my vote for the core being plugged up.
 
A bit of coolant from the weep hole is normal. That keeps the seal lubricated. A steady drip (or running out like mine was) is a problem. You will not see much movement in the radiator unless you look when the thermostat is opened, and that doesn't last long. I rebuilt my own on the 1550 with parts from Kellog, but I have a press and could make my support tools.
 
When doing a vinegar flush you have to be sure to fill it with 100% vinegar and then run it till good and warm and what I do then if drain it and catch it and filter it and then back flush by way of the block drain and then if not good enough pour it back in and do it again. Have a 77 that would over heat fast and it took 3 or 4 flushes to get it clean and it has not over heated since
 
Im not familiar with your water pump but have seen impeller come loose. I would check for a plugged radiator first. Put your hand on it and check for cold spots.
 
I ran a 50/50 mix in the 2-135 for a week of hard running while I was chopping silage. I took the hoses off after that,made a fitting to hook up a hose and flush it from the bottom up. I did that for ten minutes or more,then ran clean water and baking soda to neutralize the acid in it for three or four days before flushing it again. The water ran black as the ace of spades both times,but had very little effect on the temp that the tractor was running. The only thing that fixed it was a new radiator a year ago.
 
there is a product made for boilers (heating systems), don't know the name, it works...I've used a product called "The Works", it will decimate rust and lime in seconds, have no idea what it would do in an engine but there will be no rust or lime left, that I can promise you... and it's cheap

if you're building pressure and still have old hoses, get ready for the boom.

Sounds like the things plugged and bad well water probably the reason. Remove the therom replace the housing. Pull the upper hose from the rad...run the engine with a full rad...if it gush's from the hose (doubtful) replace the thermo...If it doesn't...
 

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