how do you if an diesel injector pump is bad.

I am going to an auction this weekend where there is a 1850 diesel. The auctioneer told me the guy is selling it because he is getting old and just needs the money, but the tractor is in good shape. The reason I am interested is because it doesn't have the hydropower which is what I have been looking for.

Since one of the higher cost items to fix on these tractors is the injection pump, how can you tell if one is bad or not? If I see oil leaks around the pump, is this a good indication something is really bad, or just an indication a simple seal needs to be replaced. I have never owned a diesel tractor before , so I have no experience on what to look for.

I have read that if they need ether to start it, that is a good indication the rings are bad.

No engine oil in the pump itself. The pump runs in diesel fuel only.
Hopefully Dieseltech sees this post very knowledgeable fellow.

It maybe hard to tell if there is something wrong with the injection pump without some diagnosis that you will probably not be able to do at an auction before the tractor is sold. I would look for obvious things:general overall condition of the tractor and fuel system. Fuel leaks, how old do the filters look, the fuel lines from pump to injectors, etc... Hopefully you can get there before the tractor is started the first time for the day. Check for smoke and what color it is upon start up and while running. How hard does it start, cranking time and speed. If its warm out you definitely should not need either to start it, honestly you should not need it at all. My Perkins starts good at most any temp, and I use intake heated when below 40deg or so. I guess what I am getting at is that it will be hard to determine a bad pump at the auction, unless something obvious. Dieseltech will probably answer your question better.

My question for you is why do you want a tractor with out a hydropower or a 3speed? A diesel 1850 with hydropower is a very nice combination. I have not really heard of someone wanting one with out, I am just curious that's all?

The main reason I don't want hydra power is I like having the ability to change the clutch without having to pull the engine out. Also, it is one less thing to go wrong that I need to worry about.

Almost all the hydra power 1850 or 1855 tractors I have looked at, they all had leaky seals in the hydra power unit.

Also, from what I have seen, a tractor of this model, without the hydropower unit, it usually goes for $800 to $1000 less then one with the hydra power. Being that my limit is $3500, this is also another reason for looking for one without the unit.

I totally understand about working with a budget. I never paid attention to price of tractors with or without a hydra power. One of our 1800's we bought did not have a 2speed hydra power, although its getting one put in it. I don't think it affected the price that much. I guess it more rare to find one without.

In my opinion!! I think you would really like a tractor with a 2 or 3 speed after getting used to,it and using it for awhile. To bad you couldn't use one before making your purchase. As for doing a clutch while engine is still in the tub, I think at that point pulling the engine is like just a little more work and it would be out. It can be done in frame but maybe not all that much easier as having everything right there in front of you as if the engine was out. At that point You will have most the sheetmetal off, fuel tank out, chain coupler and shaft disconnected and out. Drain the coolant disconnect the hoses, 4 engine mount bolts, a few other misc. Things and the whole engine will be in your lap!! With easy access to everything. Once again this is totally just my opinion!!

What part of the country are you in? I see alot of 1850's for sale in line and such.

One thing without the hydro power it'll shift a lot easier,both my 1550's have the two speed and the one in the gas works perfect but its mean shifting mostly have to put it in low range to make it shift right.On the diesel the 2 speed doesn't work like it should but is easy to shift.I took the one out of my 1650 when I installed a new clutch I don't miss it.

If the injection pump tag shows 3262598 or 3680 it's the original small quill drive shaft pump. Better to have the engine with the heavier uprate drive injection pump, but parts need changed in the engine for it to fit. If the intake manifold heater works, USE it instead of ether when starting a cold engine. Most Perkins start well anyway if in good condition. See how it starts and runs cold, is usually the best clue what shape the engine is in, blueish/white smoke with engine miss is not the best sign, but if it clears when warmed up may not be a bad buy..

Dieseltech could you please Email me when you have a chance please? [email protected]

Thanks

Will do. In case I mess it up, mine is [email protected]