CO-OP E3 Running poorly

birdydog14

New User
I have a 1949 CO-OP E3 that I use a few times a year for food plot work. It has developed into a poor runner and I am looking for trouble shooting help to narrow it down. It starting running poorly pulling a two bottom plow. It would really bog down and low power until I lifted the plow up. It has steadily gotten worse to the point of just dying pulling the plow. It seemed like it was missing but it just would not rev up. It is now bad enough it will barely move even when it is not under load. I've been thinking about carburetor, ignition, and governor, and I'm leaning to something wrong with the governor, but I can't seem to work it out. At one time, the linkage from the carburetor to the the front arm had come off and I just put it back on again. I am able to get the engine to rev up as I stand next to it by moving that linkage or even trying to hold it steady. The tractor will definitely rev up as I sit next to it, but I can't get it to speed up when it is under load. I'm kicking myself now for not taking a little video as I'll bet someone on here would be able to listen to it and point me in a direction. So, I'm looking for help. Someone give me some basic tests to do so I can work out what my issue is. I'm not without skills, but I just don't understand why it won't speed up under load.
 
It must be in the governor area. Any chance you lost something when the linkage was off, like a spring or something. Look at a parts manual or another tractor if you can.
 
If it has an Autolite distributor that's the first place I'd go,I've had two 30's with the Autolite dist. that gave problems replaced them with a Delco from an AC both times and no more
problems.
 
I've never had a problem with the Autolite distributors. If you have a manual reset the governor linkage. You have to start by adjusting it to a specific length. You may also have to bend the governor arm that crosses in front of the block. I pulled a carb off one to put in a new inlet needle and just because of that had to reset the governor.
 
"On the distributor, there must be two very small springs on the timing advance under the plate that holds the points and condenser."

....that I have seen break, on several occasions, and nobody can give you the correct replacement.
 
had a e4 that was on the bailer running fine then started running like crap wont rev up broken advance spring in drist changed to a delco from a gleaner combine
 
points can do that. A symptom of bad points is an increase in full consumption, just chucks raw unburnt gas.
 
I very much appreciate everyone's quick response. My tractor is 25 miles away so I don't have quick access. I think I will pull the distributor and check those springs first. I will also get pictures and maybe some video. I feel like I will get this figured out with your help. Thanks!
 
OK, so. Swing and a miss and possible a new direction. I went out and was going to open up the distributor and in the process realized that the bolt in the bracket that holds the distributor had come out.
I thought for sure I was on to something (picture below). Went to town for a bolt and put it back in, but as I was putting on, realized that the distributor would still be in the same relation to the rotor,
so doubted it. It did fire right up though and seem to be working. It definitely works better cold or with a fresh battery. I started down the road and it runs decent, then starts to miss again. As the
tractor warms up, it definitely gets worse. I am beginning to think it may be a fuel problem. While it is sitting at moderate idle, I can definitely see the governor calling for the carb as the engine
misses and begins to slow down. The governor seems to call for the gas fine. As it calls for the gas, it just does not seem to pick up. It also doesnt seem like it is flooding. it just seems like the
fuel flow stops and the cylinders quit firing suddenly and the engine coasts down. It seems that as the engine warms up, the fuel does not flow. I'm still struggling. So as I am sitting here typing this,
I'm wondering about the valves...right? Help me out here, but proper seating of the valves is what creates the suction for the fuel to flow...right? And the fact that it seems like it rotates freely after
it starts to die might also point me there? Am I on the right path and if so, is there a cheap fix here? SeaFoam or other solvent to get the valves to seat better?
 

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