6 Volt Positive Ground

60 Fan

Member
Question, 65 plus years ago, My Father used a 66 for daily chores only in winter time. (Read here short times running in sub zero weather) Always had good luck with starting and battery was always up.
During these winters he some how set or wired the generator to a full charge in order to not have problems with short run times. Can anyone tell me specifically what he jumpered or bypassed to accomplish this full charge during severe cold only? When spring came along he set it back to being charged with regulator as normal. Thanks.
 
My Super 55 owners manual has the procedure,
but I don't remember how to do it now. Mine
was a family tractor that was wired for full
charge when I got it. Took me awhile to
figure out why it was boiling batteries when
I started mowing 8 acres regularly.
 
Most if not all of the old 6v systems used the light switch. In was low charge, one click out for high charge, two clicks for lights if you had them. There was a small coil of resistance wire on the switch body mounted on studs. The switch body was grounded. When on high charge the switch bypassed the coil internally which is the same as grounding the field wire.
 
Remove the wire from the BAT terminal on the voltage regulator and connect it along with the existing wire to the L terminal.
 
Once Oliver got to the Fleetline series they used a voltage regulator to control the rate of charge. The 60 and70 tractors used the light switch. Also the 66 had a 3 brush generator and by moving the third brush you can change generator output.
 
That is the right answer. Most 6 volt auto lites on cases, Cockshutts and Massey?s work the same way. If you need even more, you can move the 3rd brush. Grounding the field will give you full output. Best for short runs as an all day run will possibly make the armature get hot and throw it?s solder, not to mention boiling the water out of the battery.
 

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