2150 3 speed

What goes wrong with the 3 speed trans on the 2150. Mine will only hold in Direct position it was this way when I got the tractor couple years ago. Need to put clutch in and thought while I had it apart would fix the 3 speed if possible. It free wheels will not let u pull start tractor. Are these parts available and how hard is it to rebuild.
 
I do not think you can pull start any of the Olivers with the Hydrual shift. The engine side has to be turning the PTO shaft as that drives the pump in the hydrual shift. Without pressure I do not think it will back drive.
 
There is a way to do it, BUT I think you need over drive to make it work. It has been over 40+ years since I have pull started one. What do know about the history of the over under unit?
 
We used to pull start the ones with a three speed years ago. I also can't remember what range it was in. I do remember you had to pull them a long distance before they would start turning the engine over.
 
I worked for a guy that had an 1850. He left it parked, in gear but didn't set the brakes. As we were standing there, it started rolling, and after about 30', the engine started turning over and it started up and took off.
The only thing we could think was that the hydra power was in direct, and once it built oil pressure it engaged
It was entertaining watching him chase it across the field..
Pete
 
Yes you can pull start an Oliver or a White with an O/U. The O/U pump will turn when the output shaft is turning. Put the transmission in 6th with the clutch down and O/U in direct or over once it is rolling let the clutch out and it will turn the engine over.
 
For sure the Hydra-power will allow pull starting. When I was working on a muck farm in high school. I would park an 1800A gas with 5-bottom plow on a hill for lunch because the battery was so bad in it. A little roll and it would fire right up.
 
Olivers and Whites pull start just fine in Over and Direct (unless the clutch plates are gone).

If you're planning to pull the engine to rebuild the clutch, there is no better time to fix the O/U, you're right. Do a couple of things first though. Get a pressure gage that reads to 300psi, and check your clutch pressures (over and direct). I'll have to look at my service manual, but a 2150 over/under should produce something in the 160psi when engaged. As long as you are building that much pressure, then your pump and piston seals are still good.

I hate doing things twice, so when I rebuild these I buy the seal kit and replace them all. However if you're on a tight budget and the pressure test above meets spec, you can get away with replacing the sprag clutch (that is why your under drive does not work), and your fiber overdrive clutch plates (unless the metal separator plates are burnt as well. Of course check your direct drive plates too while in there. Also, don't cheat this, replace your input and output shaft seals. These cost very little, but if you put this back together and the old seals leak, you will be very angry.

If your sprag clutch has completely failed and you have material transfer from the sprag onto the output shaft, people will tell you that your output shaft is ruined and that you need to spend a few thousand $'s on a replacement. That's not necessarily good information. If that's happened, chuck the output shaft into a lathe and run it while using fine grade emory cloth on the area where the sprag clutch rides. As long as the area cleans up and it still within spec (these numbers are in the service manual), the output shaft is perfectly fine. These output shafts are ridiculously hard, and the sprag is soft. People panic when they see material transfer and make bad decisions for no good reason.

The overdrive clutch plates are the same as those used in a C4 Ford automatic transmission, they are available for about $5 each, so don't overpay. I've not yet found a replacement for the direct drive clutch plates, but they're only about $20-$25 each, so they're not terrible.

The first 1 of these I rebuilt (White 2-180 with heavy duty over/under), I purchased everything new from Agco, and the parts costs was about $2k (sprag, plates, seal kits, bearings, etc.). Since then, I've tried a little harder and found that if you test first and figure out if the piston seals are still good, and then only buy what you need, the rebuild costs for these things come WAY down. Sprag will cost you $300-$400, there is no alternative to this. The sprag is installed 1 way only, so don't screw that up, it's spelled out correctly in the manual.

These over/under's are very repairable, and they do cost money to repair, but all parts are available, and they are not nearly as scary as some would make them out to be. I'm happy to help you along the way on this repair as best I can.
 
John, if I understand you right, we pulled that lanova head 1650 to start on a cold day back in the 80's. Out of the shed, around the bins that were there and almost to the road. Two speed hydraul shift.

This was a long time before I rebuilt it and set the intake valves to your specs. Big difference in the starting.

And by the way, that Super 88 I talked to about starts a lot better.

RT
 
my 1850 in 5th over will start in 10 ft by pulling never over 20 feet. I have seen everything tried but over will definitely make it easier to pull start. Now back to fixing my over/under while the clutch on the 18 gets fixed.
 

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