Cockshutt guys, please help

I put the engine back on the E4 today and cannot get it to slide all the way back to the mounting holes. The clutch and PTO splines are engaged but it needs to go back another 7/8 inch. I put a new bronze bushing in it and checked so it fit good on the input shaft. I had the input shaft and sleeve off to clean and check. The input shaft and sleeve had wear at the front end just behind the splines as if the shaft was off-center to the sleeve. With the splines engaged I could feel gap between the shaft and sleeve was tight at the bottom. Thought it may have been the clutch disk off center so I turned the flywheel 180 and it's still the same. The parts manual show shims at the front engine mount but not at the back. Looks as if the engine is sitting too low in the tub.

It sounds like the input shaft is not sliding into the pilot bushing. Did you use the input shaft to align the clutch disc while you tightened the pressure plate?

The rear of the block is the correct height if you?ve attached the mounting plate properly. If you want to check the front, install the engine without the pressure plate and see how parallel the clutch disc is to the flywheel.

The mounting plate is on dowels. I didn't have anything to align the disk so I eyeballed it carefully but it may still be off. I'm going to loosen the pressure plate tomorrow to see if that's the problem. The front mount has .010 shims. Thanks.

MIKE: Did you install a new clutch disk? If you did you will have problems as the release levers are worn excessively! Also you need a shaft to line the clutch up!

Your PTO drive shaft is not lining up with the pilot bushing. They can be a real bear. I had one where i had to take the PTO off slide the engine back and then play with the PTO shaft to get in correctly. Also if the splines on the PTO shaft are twisted or galled up it will make getting it back together a pain

Thanks for the replies. Mach12 had it which is what I suspected. I loosened the clutch cover bolts and it slid right in. But now I have another thing to check. In the original post I said the input shaft was rubbing on the sleeve and showed about .010-.015 wear that tapered off toward the rear. Now that everything's back in place I have the same condition. It's as if the sleeve is not square with the face of the transmission. I thought the wear may have been from the clutch bearing forcing the sleeve up or down. Some PO put an extension on the clutch lever so you had to push the pedal waaaay down to get it to release. So he cut the pedal stop off but it still did a lot of gear grinding. See gears in picture, every one has some damage. Could it be that the input shaft sleeve is out of square with the end casting? I didn't think to check it when I had it out. I'll have to split it again.

John: The old clutch was OK but the cover assembly was full of oil and dirt. No gasket in the front transmission bearing housing. I took the whole thing apart, cleaned it and reset the finger height. Got the specs from Custom Clutch in Cleveland. Told the guy what I had and he said they used to do a lot of them.

One reason it was grinding is those release levers on the pressure plate are worn out and if you adjusted them to move them back for better release of the clutch you just shortened the life of the clutch facings. If nothing else get them to send you a new set.

Is that too much wear, John. I set them to the correct height with the proper spacer under the pressure plate. What are they supposed to look like?

I haven?t seen one of those sleeves out of square, but that doesn?t mean someone hasn?t damaged yours. Best to double check.

Another thing that might be worth a look is where the tub frame bolts to the transmission. There are 2 bolts near the top that are made with a long shoulder under the head to act as dowel pins. If someone has left them out you could have some misalignment there.

I had it split to take the input shaft out. Easy to do without the engine. The dowel bolts are in place and everything's kosher. I'll do the split again.

My 40 and 50, I put the engines in with the pressure plate not bolted to the flywheel. Then you just have the LPTO spline to deal with. When it is in place, just bolt it on then. Much easier. I wonder if the front of your engine is too high or too low?

On the clutch shaft not stopping and gear grinding,I found on many Cockshutt 40/50 and 570 tractors the clutch shaft was a little too long and bottomed out in the fly wheel causing the
shaft to keep spinning when the clutch was shoved in.Grinding a little off the end of the clutch shaft solved the problem.

Today I pulled the engine back out and split it again to pull the shaft and sleeve. I checked it for square and the sleeve was nearly 1/8 out of square with the bearing housing. Enough to cause the wear and affect the way the clutch bearing hits the fingers.