2-105 white. First question of many

I got my 2-105 home today which I bought in the spring.
My $3000 purchase.
Anyways. It seems to me that the clutch is slipping. How do I tell if it's the clutch slipping or over/under slipping? I never checked the free travel on the pedal yet.
The previous owner used trans/hydraulic(co-op brand) oil in the over/under.
Todd

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Good looking old tractor. Probably needs clutch adjusted, my old 1800 Oliver needed adjusted every year or two.

You got a heck of a buy - the 2-105 is a great tractor. I would see if it slips with the over/under in the under position. In that position you are running through a sprag clutch, so there should be nothing to slip, other than your clutch
Pete

Looks bigger than my 105. Must be the tires. Better hope you don't have to put a clutch in that thing. Or have to pull the OU for that matter. Those are the worst Oliver/White there ever was to pull the engine out of. You have to lift the front of the cab about a foot to get the fuel tank out. I'd rather split 10 1365s for clutch jobs than do another 105 with a cab.

In response to Pete's post. It slips the same in over/direct/under.
You only get a slight slip if you're pulling very hard but it is for sure there.
Also notice it when u get to 6th gear on the road and you hammer the throttle.

Looks like a '75 model.

Nice looking tractor. Similar to the one I have except mine has the air scoop built into the hood and doesn't have the air intake breather with the exhaust respirator.

If you check out some of my earlier posts you can get a pretty good idea of the over/under drive, clutch, engine and PTO. I have had to work on all these areas.

Not sure where you are located but I have the pressure plate and clutch disk which I replaced on mine. When I checked the measurements on my old clutch disk it was virtually the same thickness as the new one so would be still useable. But considering the work involved it might be better to spend the money and put in all new like I did. It is a big job to remove the engine and over under drive to replace the clutch.

For adjustment there is a rod on the left side below the fuel tank with a clevis to adjust the pedal free play. Other than that if it still slips the clutch will need replacing.

I hope it is not in the over/under drive as it is expensive to rebuild. Not too difficult but quite detailed and everything has to be right because it is difficult to test it before the whole assembly is back in the tractor.

If you check my posts, they include lots of pictures of the various parts I worked on so it should be informative info for you.

Thanks Minnie man. I'm located in saskatchewan.
Where r u located?

Hi Todd
I'm in SW Manitoba. About an hour from the Sask border on #1. If I can give you any tips drop a msg I'd be happy to reply.

.JUST FOR INFO i HAVE DONE SEVERAL 2-105 AND 2-85 CLUTCHES AS i WORKED FOR A FORMER oLIVER/wHITE DEALER FOR 20 YEARS. AT FIRST THEY TOLD ME TO RAISE THE CAB TO REMOVE THE TANK FOR ENGINE REMOVAL BUT IT SEEMED A LOT OF TROUBLE SO I HELD THE VTANK UP ONLY TO GET THE WEIGHT OFF THE FRONT SUPPORT, REMOVED THE TWO BOLTS HOLDING THAT BRACKET AND GOT IT OUT OF THE WAY. THEN THE TANK WOULD DROP DOWN IN THE FRONT AND GET AT ENOUGH ANGLE TO COME OUT BETWEEN THE ENGINE AND CAB WITH THE CAB STILL IN PLACE. THAT METHOD SAVED A LOT OF WORK AS THOSE CAB BOLTS COULD BE A CHALLENGE AFTER SEVERAL YEARS.WORKED FOR ME. THANKS

Thanks so much for the tip. Mine really should come out again. I changed everything while I was in there except the front seal in the OU,and guess what's leaking now? I hoped it was a line,but I can wipe off the front of the OU housing below the input shaft and a little streak of oil will form there again.