White 2-105 Working

MinniMan

Member
Finally getting close to being done with the 105 project although still a couple things to attend to.

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Hooked to the baler

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Baling straw

Noticed the PTO control valve wouldn't stay locked in the engaged position. What would the issue be? A worn dent ball or spool? Haven't disassembled the valve yet. But I put a new O-ring on the dent piston when I rebuilt the PTO unite.

Also the AC to service but supposed to have a guy come and test it to find any leaks before trying to recharge it. May have issues with the compressor or condenser as it has a damaged area. The condenser fans run ok however.

Otherwise it is running smooth. Makes her work a little and blow a little black smoke when the bale is nearly full size.

Any suggestions on the PTO valve would be appreciated.
 
Yes that works.

My son used a bungi cord in the short term too. But since I have spent a lot of time getting that tractor back into top condition I would like to solve the PTO valve issue too. I'll just have to wait until I can get it back into the shop when he is finished baling.

However thanks for the suggestion.
 
Just adjust the linkage. There's a real fine line when they're worn to get it to stay engaged and have the PTO brake work. On mine,there's a small roll pin in the top arm that the linkage hooks to,where it's slid on the rod that has the lever on it. That pin works up from time to time and puts way too much play in everything.
 
Well I did notice that roll pin was sticking up quite a bit. It seems someone has welded the adjusting clevis on the end of the rod at some point. Why I have no idea.

I will take a close look at the mechanism before I go into the PTO control valve.

The cab mounts are in good condition and tight as I had them apart when I removed the fuel tank to remove the engine and over under drive.

Thanks to both Mr. Lund and Mr. Schwiebert. You comments are appreciated. When I figure it out I will post back to help someone else.
 
The real issue is the PTO oil pressure is low if lever is correctly adjusted.. I fixed our 2-150 by replacing the pressure reducing valve spring to increase the oil pressure to both brakes and PTO. I forget exact specs, but 210-225psi sticks in my mind.
 
Thank you Mr. Kuhns. I will check the easy stuff first. The linkage, PTO dent ball and piston, hydraulic pressure to make sure the pump is putting out enough pressure. It runs quiet and operates the baler tailgate, power steering and brakes fine. But could be a problem. I will change the hydraulic oil filter was just waiting to make sure there were no PTO unite leaks. If all that checks out I will get into the pressure control valve.

Just wondering? I checked page 214 of the agco book and noted there are two springs mentioned as pressure reducing springs. They are #39 and #44 on the page. Which one were your referring to Mr. Kuhns? Would it be possible to put a shim washer under whichever spring to increase the pressure? If so how thick?

I rebuilt the pressure control valve on my 135 last year by resealing everything with new O-Rings and it has performed perfectly on the haybine.

Thank you for the suggestion it is appreciated.
 
It should be the plug closest to the ground. The spool has a piece with another check ball and spring threaded to it. In the IT manual it is number 25 in the book I have. I replace the outer spring. As far as shimming is concerned, try a little at a time. I just replaced the spring from a donor tractor to fix ours.
 
Well as promised I will report back on the cause of the PTO valve not locking in the on position. It turned out to be my fault. But perhaps by posting what the issue was it will help someone else from making the same mistake.

When I overhauled the PTO I replaced the O-Ring on the piston in the PTO valve which actuates the locking ball. It appears that when I removed the piston the ball stuck to it momentarily and then fell back in but not into its position in the hole at the bottom of the bore. Either due to poor lighting or my stupidity I didn't check to make sure it was seated in the hole and inserted the piston back in the bore with the new O-Ring. I installed the valve on the PTO unit housing and it sealed with the new O-rings and operated but wouldn't lock in the on position.

Today I removed the valve, took the piston out and saw the problem right away. When I placed the ball back in its correct position and reassembled everything it worked perfectly. So note to self double check every component as you reassemble the parts. I actually priced out a used valve assembly and it was $500 Cdn.

Here are a few pictures to show the error of my ways.

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PTO valve removed but with the ball in its proper position in the bore.

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1 shows the imprint the ball made when it wasn't in its proper location in the valve.

2 shows how the ball can sit to one side in the bore and still insert the piston

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3 shows the imprint the ball made on the piston and of course wouldn't lock the valve in the on position. Fortunately it didn't do serious damage to the piston or valve body.

Thank you to everyone for their advice and suggestions. Although it was a simple error on my part you all gave excellent advice.
 
My 2-105 has had that problem since new back in 1975, dealer worked on it several times, but a piece of wire held PTO in gear when the brakes were applied.
 
Hello OLWHDA

That sounds like a pressure problem when the brakes are applied as it drops the pressure to the PTO control valve causing it to disengage the PTO. Could be either in the servo valve or pressure control valve. I would think the service person should have checked/adjusted both when it was new. Perhaps J/S can give you more information on the cause. He has a lot of knowledge about these tractors.

Ours performs perfectly now with the overhauled PTO and has no issues when applying the brakes.

If you have followed my posts on this tractor you will know I have done a lot of work to it since my son bought it. Although it didn't appear too beat up externally it needed a lot of work internally. Fortunately I was able to do most of it minus the rebuild of the cylinder head. It starts and runs like new now and works great on the baler.

I just have the AC to service and I want to reseal the hydraulic control valves as they seep a little between the valve banks. My other concern is they leak around the spools and they could be worn in that area. Hopefully new O-Rings will help both areas. However they are the only oil leaks it has which is unusual for a tractor of its age.

Thank you for the comments about your tractor and I hope it serves you well.
 

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