Question for Tdoctor

I got the cover off that transmission on the 2-135. When I got park to release so I could move it,the rod that moves the latch was down. After I got the cover off,it latches with the rod down and releases with it up. ?????? Also.where should the lower spring be on that rod? There was one on top,above that snap ring,but I can't find a lower spring.

Any ideas?

If you check page 144 of the agco parts book for the 135/155 it shows a good breakdown of the parking brake assembly. There is a roll pin in the arm on the cross shaft that may have sheared and also a pin in the ink connecting to the actuator rod that could have come loose so it won't release the parking brake. On the bottom there is a spring and hardware which you were asking about.

I have worked on this assembly on my 135 and it is a miserable place to work. You need very long skinny arms.

Hope this helps.

Ya,thanks. I looked at that schematic yesterday. It's deceiving. Like you said,no place to work and can't see much. The castings are in the way. I can feel the bolt on the bottom end of it,but that's about all I can do. I can work the rod up and down and that latch snaps in and out like it should,it's just not in the same position as it was or something. I thought the first time I pulled it up something flipped or some such thing,but I'm not sure.

Do you know if that rod is supposed to be up or down when it's latched? Did you read my post from yesterday about it? I still don't know that it's not a linkage problem. I might have to draw myself a picture. I wonder if it's possible for the lever that the linkage rod hooks to,to go over center at the top so the linkage is moving it the wrong way?

I agree it is not easy to figure out the engagement and disengagement of the latch assembly. My tractor isn't at home right now to check which way I move the lever in the cab to apply the brake and the rotation of the lever and shaft.

But from the diagram I would think if the latch actuating rod went down it should disengage. By pushing the latch assembly down and due to the position of the bolt attaching the latch it should pivot away from the park lock disk. Since the connecting point of the actuating rod is on the right side of the bolt attaching the lock latch, (facing the front of the tractor) and moving down should pivot away and up should pivot towards the locking disk.

I would wonder if the arm hasn't pivoted because the roll pin sheared and allowed the shaft to turn inside the arm and be out of sink with the control level in the cab, or in some manner as you say over centered. If you can feel the bolt on the bottom of the actuating rod the spring should be above it.

I could be wrong and it might work the opposite way because I can't remember if you moved the locking lever in the cab forward or backway to put on the park brake. I am thinking you move the parking lever forward in the suggestion above.

Someone with their tractor handy could check it out for sure. Plus others will have more experience too. But hopefully this helps you figure out the rotation and movement of the mechanism.

Sure this won't help but I think the rod should be down to release park. I have had to take cab floors out of both my 100s because they wouldn't come all the way out of park. Found a bird or rats nest in there that prevented rod from coming all the way down. That's all I know for now, which aint much!

Make sure everybody knows this is a Series 3. Are they the same under there?

I don't know if you can tell anything from these pictures or not. The first picture is with the rod down. The latch is in the notch in the gear. The second one it with the rod up. The latch swings up and out of the notch. I just can't see for the life of me how anything could be flipped. I pushed the tractor ahead with the loader with it down in the position where it appears to be locked. It rolled forward but wouldn't roll back.

Both springs must be good. I pulled up hard on the rod and I can feel the bottom spring pulling back against me. The top spring was right up against the cover and I can say for sure that one's good. The bolt is in it that holds the latch to the brackets and on the rod. The rod turns inside the latch,but on the schematic,I don't see where there's anything that's supposed to hold it in one place anyway. No key,no pin.

Here's the schematic too. I checked part numbers for the early ones and the Series 3. Mine's a 3. The rod and gear are the same number,but the latch is a different number. It looks the same in the schematic,but something must be different.

I've got it figured out. That number 34 bolt is missing from the latch. It's just flopping around in there. I hope it just worked loose and fell out and didn't break off. If it's broken,that tractor will never have Park again. No way to get in to where it threads in to the casting.

I think the bolt's broken off. I tried to stick a wire in the hole and it only went about the depth of one thread. Son of a .....!

That is an impossible spot to get at to remove the broken bolt piece without disassembling the entire transmission. At least if you can remove the lock assembly and hardware you will able to use the tractor minus the parking brake.

I would suspect it engaged while the tractor was still rolling and put too much pressure on the bolt causing it to break. It would be easy to happen and not carelessness on your part. I always thought it was not a great design if it was engaged when taken out of gear but while still rolling.

Perhaps a winter project sometime down the road but not an easy fix. Sorry to head of your problem.

Thanks. We took the latch out today. My son and I worked for an hour and a half trying to get that broken bolt out. He has thinner arms than I do and could get down in there. He said when he first started trying to work it with a screwdriver it felt like it moved half a turn. I had the idea of trying to stick a welding rod to it by just holding it against there,then turning on the arc welder and just letting it stick. We tried that over and over again until we decided there just wasn't any sense even trying anymore. We went to his machine shop and got better tools,angle drills,left handed bits,everything we could think of throwing at it. The bolt is so hard that nothing would even dent it.

I sure hate like all get out to have a tractor that's not right,but I need to get busy filling silo,so I guess it'll have to run the way it is for now.

I sure wish I could think of a way to put a brake lock on it so it would at least hold while the engine is running.

The only way to get it if you can't from the top is to get to it from the front. It might make it a winter project when you can prolly have the tractor torn down for a small period of time. You will need to remove the engine and 3 speed to gain access to a frost plug in the front of the transmission housing. There is one that is straight ahead of the bolt. Then you can reach through that hole with a long drill bit/reversable bit to remove the rest of the bolt. We have had to do this on a couple that we weren't able to get it out from the top. This will also be the best way to truly get the new bolt tight. If it is a MFWD tractor you will also need to remove the transfer case to gain access to the correct frost plug.

Ok,thanks a lot.

Time to throw something in here incase somebody finds this in the archives. Either leave the park rod out and put a bolt and rubber washer in the hole,or hook all the linkage back up. I got it all back together and it wouldn't shift. I hadn't put the pin back in to hold the rod up. I got everything back apart but lifting the top back off the transmission. I pulled the rod out and noticed the notch in it. That notch has to be in just the right position or the shift rails won't move. I reached up and hit the shift and it went right in to gear.

It sure came apart faster the second time than it did the first.