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77D compression

O

Olliejunkie

Well-known Member
Can someone tell me what the compression should be and can I check it through the energy cell?
I got the injection pump back from the shop. Its a different one. I think it's timed right but won't fire. I'm getting some fuel to injectors. Think the next step is a compression test and check the injectors. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Paul
 
Pump could be 180 degrees out of time. That pump turns engine speed, but the hydraulic head turns I/2 speed like the cam does. Pull the valve cover, turn the engine until the pump head gear mark is visible under the two bolt pump side cover, then align the pump hub mark to the front pointer. Now make sure both valve rockers are loose on #1 cylinder, and the #6 rockers are at exhaust almost closed and intake just starting to open. If this is NOT what you have WITH the pump head gear VISIBLE in the opening, pump is 180 out of time. If so, remove the pump gear bolts, turn pump drive shaft ONE turn and re-time. Good chance that's what is wrong if engine ran before, worth a look..
 
Thanks diesel tech. It did not run when I got it. Had a broke plunger. I pulled the energy cell and could hear air passing it when I turned engine over then I brought it up to the fp mark. Made sure the mark lined up behind gear and installed head with drive gear mark on on arrow. I just checked that all lines are still lined up. I will go pull the valve cover to make sure it's on number one.
I read in the manual that if I change heads that I may have to change timing mark?
 
You can check compression through the energy cell IF you have the correct adapter. Oliver service tools had 2 adapters one for the smaller energy cells (66 & 77)and one for the larger energy cells (88 and larger)You also need a diesel compression gauge that works with that adapter. 350 psi would be good. Stick with what diesel tech said, it is not hard to get a PSB out of time. Make sure your F P mark is lined up on the flywheel. PSB pumps are timed to the start of injection, Oliver engines with Roosa Pumps to the end of injection. Remember valves loose on#1 and 3 timing marks visiable, the flywheel, the mark in the timing window of the pump and the mark and pointer on the pump drive hub. Questions?
 
Thank you again for the info. I took the valve cover off and I am on the compression stroke but with the pump marks lined up it is past the fp mark about 1/4 inch. I don't remember changing the timing on the gear but maybe the previous owner did. I will try removing the gear bolts and see if I can get it closer when it cools off. I need two shade trees. One for morning and one for afternoon.
 
(quoted from post at 16:54:41 07/15/17) Thank you again for the info. I took the valve cover off and I am on the compression stroke but with the pump marks lined up it is past the fp mark about 1/4 inch. I don't remember changing the timing on the gear but maybe the previous owner did. I will try removing the gear bolts and see if I can get it closer when it cools off. I need two shade trees. One for morning and one for afternoon.
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I have it on the compression stroke #1 and all 3 lines on their mark. It doesn't fire or even smoke. It will fire on ether but I hate using it. Any more suggestions please?
 
I don't think my pump is working. I took the line off to number 6 and it squirts about 6 inches. I don't know what's normal but it doesn't seem like enough.
 
(quoted from post at 05:19:06 07/16/17) That is plenty. Now take one of the injectors out, hook it to a line and see if the pump opens the injector.
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Thanks J , what's the secret to removing injectors? I pried and tapped on that one for 15 minutes with no success.
 
I got the injector out. It's not popping off. Going to try to borrow a tester and check them all. Thank you for the help.
 
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