Worst Oliver tractor

I'm trying to do an article on what people consider the worst tractor of the brand they otherwise like. Most JD guys would say the 2010. I think Ford people would say the 6000.
I know a lot of Oliver guys have a disdain for some of the foreign built utilities, but let's stick to domestic built.
What was the worst Oliver tractor built in Charles, City?
 
I have been around Oliver tractors many years and cannot think of a bad model built in Iowa.
 
1855 diesel. Should have stayed with the Perkins engine.

The Fiat builts were the worst and also some of the best. 1250 and 1450 fiat built weren't worth a plug nickel. The 13xx were tough as nails.
 
I gotta disagree on the 1450,my 1450 4WD is easy starting,runs good and a pretty good ole tractor.I know of a farmer in PA that's been using 2 of them for years successfully.
 
They liked to go through head gaskets. Then the head bolts would break when you tried to change the gasket. They were a hardened bolt and often,when somebody tried to drill them out,the bit would walk off,go in to the block and the water jacket.
 
Yea I read that on Import Tractor's website too but from the one I've run and operated and the others I've known about I wouldn't take it as Gospel.The 1450 the fellow posted awhile back
about with the loader was bought new in the 60's was used as a logging and loader tractor mostly which is a hard life most time.The motor had never given them any trouble.
Worst thing now few parts are available but that's not the tractor's fault.
 
Probably have to go with the 1855. It is 95% a great tractor and its not even that the 310 is a bad motor because its not. Its just that in that one they pushed them cubes way past their limit without the proper engine modifications. If you were good at keeping up with the maintenance and didnt start cranking down on the magic screw they would hold together alright but when guys started trying to twist those non-oil cooler blocks they started popping rods and gave that motor a bad reputation even though it didnt necessarily deserve it. We are currently running 3 310s in a 1800, 1950T, and 1955 and we love the heck out of them but the 1800 is in that happy 80-90 horse sweet spot that motor liked to run in, and the 1950T and 1955 are both oil cooler blocks so they held up well.
 
Since I can't get the hub off my Super 99 I am going with it...not the best idea with the center on a tapered axle....other than it is a good tractor.
 
did you try putting 2 big jacks on inside of rim or casting, jack out pressure, hit the axle with sledge hammer, come right off. i did mass the threads up tho, so leave the nut on
 
I had a White 2-70 that broke two crankshafts before the tractor had 1000 hours on it. It also always locked in two gears when shifting into low reverse if you were not careful. The hydraulics gave me problems too. My 2-70 was junk and we were glad to see it go. It was nothing but a money pit. My other Olivers and Whites have given me nothing but good service.
 
(quoted from post at 19:46:01 06/09/17) You need a good puller it can be done

So far I have tried 2 1" threaded rods with a 2x2tubing across them and a 20 ton jack between the end of the axle and the tubing...heating with a torch...stepped up tubing to 2.5" x 2.5 with a solid bar inside now and reversed the jack.
 
49595.jpg
 
we've used an actual threaded gear puller along
with a porta power on the inside to pull a few sets.
You will need something more in my opinion. We
didn't use heat either.
 
(quoted from post at 18:01:34 06/07/17) I gotta disagree on the 1450,my 1450 4WD is easy starting,runs good and a pretty good ole tractor.I know of a farmer in PA that's been using 2 of them for years successfully.

I just purchased a 1967 Oliver 1450... I like it, easy starting, powerful and doesn't drink fluids or smoke. I had the 1410 loader and a 6' bushhog rotary cutter.

Just browsing through the thread it seems that a drive from Va to PA would be worth getting some parts. I've tried adjusting the steering but all I can get is a tight spot on the wheel. The front wheels will turn on their own if they hit anything bigger than about 3". the sterring wheel has almost 360 degrees of freeplay...

Uhg. Any advice on finding parts would be appreciated.
 

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