Oliver 550 remote hydraulic install for hydraulic top-link

d page

Member
Hello Oliver users:

I am would like to add a hydraulic top-link for use on my Oliver 550 gas ( model: 45-0592; sn: 127427-519)for use with landscape rake, box scraper, and orchard knife.
It appears from my search of previous posts that parts to accomplish this are very limited (at least from what I could find from several year old posts).

Can anyone provide suggestions on how to accomplish this currently? (what parts will be needed,where to obtain parts, suggestions for installing)
I have attached a pic of what I believe to be the port for accessing the internal pump, but am very unclear on the particulars of parts, parts availability and work to accomplish this.

Any help on this would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
d page
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remove the side cover on rh side as pictured if i remember right and one towards the rear of the tractor foctory valve bolts right on the valves are not cheap
 
I got thinking about this. Has anybody ever tried to make a plate to bolt under that Y so that you blocked off the return hole and had pressure where the plug is,or am I just spitting in to the wind?
 
There are two hydraulic ports underneath that "triangular" cover in your picture. The bottom one is "live" all the time - and with the cover on, the flow is just shunted back into the upper port. The cover has a pipe plug in it because you drain the hydraulic system by removing that plug and running the tractor until the oil all runs out and the flow stops. If you want to run the live fluid to a valve, you have to remove the cover and plumb it - "hot" hose in the bottom outlet, return hose in the upper. The ports are even already threaded, for your plumbing pleasure. Make sure you get an open center valve, mount it to your fender or something, but the fluid must return back to the pump so you don't ruin it. Relief pressure should be set at 1700 on your new valve.
Included are a couple pictures of mine. I have some type of aftermarket Cesna block on the side of my case that my hoses are plumbed into, but it is the same concept as plumbing directly into the side of the hyd. case. See the last photo, it is of my aftermarket block and the hyd unit, it is up-side-down since it was on the bench. I run a 3 spool valve to control the loader and the aux. ports to the rear.
alve example: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_22089_22089?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Hydraulics%20%3E%20Hydraulic%20Valves%20%3E%20Detent%20Valves&utm_campaign=Prince&utm_content=2036&gclid=CMLWhKnxp9MCFdC6wAodiwMNsQ
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Those holes in the casting are threaded then? I never had one off. Our first 55 had a factory valve on it,the second one didn't. Somebody on here told me I'd have to have a factory valve to put remotes on it. I traded it off on a 1550. The one I've got now doesn't have a valve,but I'd like to put remotes on it. If I can just thread something in to the holes and use an open center valve that has its own relief valve,well heck,I've got a few of those around here.
 
Funny you would ask about the threads I was kind of doubting it myself. Why wouldn't mine have been plumbed in that way to start, instead of using the adapter block? And I can't remember if they were or not now when it was apart. I copied a portion of my original message from a reply by Mike (WA) to one of your posts in 2013, link is below. From the photo that you used there it sure looks like they just threaded pipe nipples into that one. I guess we'll have to wait for d page to pull his triangular side cover off and let us know!
Untitled URL Link
 
Mine's sitting back in behind the 1550 and 500. One of these days when I have it out,I'll pull that Y off and see what's in there.
 
I have several factory auxilary valves for sale---My email is open or you can call me at 903 729 8349----Thanks
Kent Gordon
Palestine, Tx
 
Being ignorant here. What is a hydraulic top link intended to do? You can't use use it to create down pressure, because the draft control would just raise the lift if you put pressure on the top link. Or am I thinking wrong? Hydraulic link for down pressure would only work on early Super 55 with selectable draft control.
 
Save yourself a lot of effort and get ahold of Kent here and get the valve that bolts right on where that cover plate is. He's a great guy to deal with and very helpful. I added one to my 550 from him and that is the cleanest, simplest way to do it.
 
THANKS to all that replied!
So if I got this right, to set my tractor up for use w/ a hydraulic top link, (I am thinking of using this one (2.5" diameter cylinder):
http://www.fitritehydraulics.com/index.html (as suggested by some on this site I believe)
I have two options:
1) buy an OEM External valve and replace cover w/ valve then connect the pressure and return ports to the hydraulic top link using flex hose OR
2) remove the cover and plumb top port (pressure) and bottom port (return) into already tapped holes (per SW3 on this thread) with flex hoses to an aftermarket valve (the one below has been suggested also by SW3):

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_22089_22089?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Hydraulics%20%3E%20Hydraulic%20Valves%20%3E%20Detent%20Valves&utm_campaign=Prince&utm_content=2036&gclid=CJjs_N_0p9MCFQ65wAodofoL_w

then connect the valve to the hydraulic cylinder of the top link w/ 2 hoses (1 for extend, 1 for retract).
being sure that the valve is an open center valve w/ relief pressure set at 1700psi.

The pro's and con's of each appear to be:
OEM EXTERNAL VALVE:
PROS: quick, clean-(less hoses and clutter), OEM valve has variable flow settings (?) from what I understand,
CONS: Pricey, could be in the way when getting in and out of tractor seat
AFTER MARKET VALVE:
PROS: Less expensive, won't obstruct entry and exit from tractor and can mount valve in a location suited for top link use
CONS: more hoses, no variable flow rate, (but an in-line hand adjustable valve(s) could be installed to accomplish this, could it not?)

COMMENTS: Took the cover plate off and found that the two holes are not tapped (see attached pic), so not sure how to accomplish option 2 now.
AND 3 questions:
1. The recommended aftermarket valve appears to be a "log splitter valve", the description says " Automatically kicks back to neutral when cylinder completes stroke" and "Warning: using a pressure detent in both directions can be dangerous."
Since I want to control the position of the top link cylinder in and out, then leave it, it seems this valve (since it has detents) might cause the cylinder to travel to the end in either direction once activated due to the detent. Called the Prince factory and they recommended a different valve that does not "run to the end of travel" like this one does, but need to know the pressure and flow rate that the application needs.
Does anyone know the output pressure from the internal pump?
The flow rate seems like it would be relatively low since the speed required is low to allow for fine adjustments, but don't have a feel for that nominal value-does anyone have a flow rate number to use?
OR recommended valve to use of the type that will allow extending or retracting then leaving in that position until adjusted again?

2. Will the OEM valve allow bi-directional movement (in/out) until I get it positioned where I want it then have it stay in that position until adjusted again?

3. To be able to move the dual acting hydraulic top link in/out as desired will only the single aftermarket valve do the job or will I need more valves?

Any assistance with my questions would be greatly appreciated.
d page
 

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