2-50 Field Boss

Fiatd Boss

New User
Sorry if this is in the wrong spot since I guess it's a Fiat but I had a couple questions that I'm hoping someone more experienced than myself can answer or give some insight on.

I have a '76 2-50 Field Boss 2.6L 3cyl Fiat with the KMW-built 140 loader and had to drain the hyd/trans fluid the other day because I had to pull the transfer case off of it.

While refilling the transmission I noticed after wiping off the dipstick that there are 2 lines on the dipstick. The first one says "Normal F" and then about an inch to inch and half higher up the stick is another line that read "Sollevatore" which when plugged into google italian-english translation yields "Lifter" or "Heaver." Anyone know if this second line is the proper level for running a FEL? Nothing of it is mentioned in the owner's manual.

My second question is one of convenience. With the loader on the tractor the return line coming off the loader is piped into the transmission filler plug which makes it a PITA to refill since you have to take that line apart (red arrow in pic). Plus it's in an awkward spot and the hole itself is only small diameter. Amidst struggling to fill the tranny expediently and tidily, I noticed a nice, large plug on top of the hydraulic lift sort of under the seat of the tractor (yellow arrow in pic). Consulting the service manual says its for tool access to remove the rockshaft. Is it possible to fill the tranny from this location? The hydraulic diagram in the service manual shows a port/hole where the hydraulic lift section drains into the main tranny reservoir but didn't know if this was practical.

Any help would be greatly appreciated or any general knowledge regarding this tractor for that matter. There isn't much info to be found and the manuals are certainly no catch-all. I generally enjoy the tractor and the work of fixing it up doesn't bother me but there isn't much out there on this model.
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I keep my Fiats filled to the higher mark,and I'd say you need to fill at the filler hole.Why not put a 'Tee" in the line with a plug? Also and the most important thing is
do NOT run the tractor with the PTO clutch lever in the up position as it'll wear out the shims first then the block and crank.
 
Ok all good information, I appreciate it.

I think I'll go the route you suggest with the TEE, would make things a lot simpler for future maintenance for sure. Since it's a bit of a nuisance in it's current setup it makes me wonder how much it was changed by previous owner(s).



So basically when I take the loader off and don't require the PTO I should just disengage the PTO with the turn knob lever in front of the seat and always leave the PTO clutch lever down/engaged (sorry just clarifying)?

Thanks!
 
Right on the PTO lever,with the lever up there is pressure against the flywheel which shoves the crankshaft forward and it'll eventually wear out the thrust washers then it'll wear the crank
against the block.Couple years ago we put a block in a 1365 that had done just that and it was hard to imagine how much it was worn both crank and block were junk.Allis Chalmers solved the problem in the 6060 and 6080 by putting a bracket and bearing on the front of the crank to hold it from coming forward.Just leave the lever down and it'll all be fine.
 
Ok thanks Traditional Farmer! Things like this are definitely nice to know. I like making old things work like new, I prefer it over buying something new, but unknowingly ruining the bottom end would be highly counterproductive

Got her all topped up with tranny fluid, put the FWA drive shaft and transfer case back on. Then I went to start it yesterday to go take the loader off and whether the starter switch or solenoid is no good I'm not sure but the starter kept cranking until I took the battery cable off of the solenoid post. The battery was weak initially so I chocked that one up as my fault. I charged it for 24 hours in a heated shop and load tested it and it performed as new, brought it home and set it by my fireplace until I was ready to put it in and try again. Threw it back in after cleaning the contacts, the frame ground, etc. and the problem persisted - no big surprise. I removed the solenoid, hooked a jumper to the little clip terminal where the orange wire goes (might not be orange from stock) to positive and grounded the negative on the metallic body of the solenoid and it performed well or as it should I thought (used the same battery to do this). The return spring is strong or at least ample enough to disengage the starter drive since I could freely manipulate it with the touch of a finger and it didn't appear to be sticky or sticking. Put it back in, same problem. I guess it'll stump me for another week until I have time to tear the dash out and look at the starter switch and all the fun stuff. Wondering if I should just order another solenoid and have it on hand for the weekend and try that first. I honestly wouldn't mind this stuff happening, since I plan to iron out the kinks in mass, but the loader being on it makes it a puncture wound to get at anything.

Just a side note the battery has 975 CCA, however I think CCA is measured at 0 degrees and it's been -7 to -14C here the last two weeks that's why I brought it into the heat.

I've had the tractor for two weeks now and it has run for 2 hours poor old beast.
 

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