White 2-105 Progress

Due to an extremely cold winter not a lot has happened on my 2-105 project until this weekend when temps hovered slightly around or above the freezing mark.





I have the manifolds back on as well as the turbo and oil lines. I used new stud bolts and nuts to attach the exhaust manifold as the old ones were badly rusted and the threads poor. In place of the studs on the turbo and exhaust elbow I used new cap screws as again the threads were gone on the old studs.



I also have part of the fuel system attached. Still have the filters, fuel lines and injectors to install.



I have the new clutch and pressure plate installed and hopefully adjusted correctly. I will check its operation after the over under is attached through the inspection opening on the bell housing to make sure there is the correct clearance between the throw-out bearing and clutch fingers.





The over under is rebuilt and all back together with a new throw-out bearing and filled with oil. I have spun it over until oil came from the cooler line connection. Actually it didn't take much turning by hand before the oil appeared.

Once all of these parts are back on, I am thinking perhaps I should bleed the fuel system and see if it will fire up before going further. I'm still concerned about having the injection pump timed properly and wonder if it wouldn't be easier to make adjustments before putting the engine and over under back in the frame.

I have cranked the engine over without the injectors in and it almost immediately brought oil into the lubrication system so that part appears to be in order.

I haven't rebuilt the water pump yet although I have a repair kit for it. It wasn't leaking when I took it off. What are your thoughts about replacing the bearings and seals? It appears to turn smoothly with little free play.

Any suggestions or comments are always appreciated.

Looking good

Looks really good. Like you have a real knack for that kind of work. I would make sure you put some good red loctite on the bellhousing bolts on the 3 speed to keep them from loosening up. Other than that, it looks great.

Send me an e-mail. A couple of things you need to check first. J.

J. Schwiebert

When I attempt to email you, as you requested, the following appears.

"Private messaging is disabled, please use email via Safemail if the user has enabled receiving emails. If not, post a forum reply."

The form indicates your email is not enabled.

Just a thought. If there are a few things you would like me to check, it would be more helpful to add your comments on the form? Even though some posts may appear long they always contain valuable information. This is a great site to pass on knowledge and educate others.

As it stands I cannot email you from this site.

Thank you for your response and I look forward to your reply.

as long as you have the parts id do the waterpump now.lot of work to do it later when its all put together.

Good idea Rick. I'm sure once it's up and running I won't want to have to go back in and rebuild something I could do easily now. Especially since I have the kit on hand.



I did partially bleed the fuel system but am back to work now and since the weather is predicted to turn back to winter I won't likely get too much further for a few weeks yet. You'll note the snow drift outside of the doorway.

I appreciate your suggestion.

When Oliver came out with the 1950-T we were told in service school if the engine had been overhauled to not attach the turbo for the first half hour or so. This was to protect the turbo from any fine particles in the cylinders from causing damage to the turbo wheel. You are going to need to retorque the head and reset the valves anyway.

Hello John.

That sounds like good advice. I would hope that there would not be any particles blowing out of the exhaust but when new internal parts are initially seating themselves it's a possibility.

I am aware that I will have to remove the turbo assembly to re-torque the head and adjust the valves once the engine is in the tractor and warmed up. By having the turbo assembly out of the way it would mean quicker access to a warm engine to make these adjustments.

I will make a small plate and gasket to seal off the turbo oil supply line so it doesn't leak oil when the engine is running and warming up.

You are probably one of the few people who know this and it's great to share information with others. Something easily over looked as a precaution.

Thank you for your advice.

Completed the reassembly of the engine and after bleeding the fuel system it started right up. Just idled a minute or so but I wanted to make sure I had all the basics in order. I noticed a fair bit of blue smoke but could be that I had oiled the pistons well during reassembly. Will see when its back in the tractor and warmed up.

I installed the Over/Under and checked the operation of the throw out bearing against the clutch and it seems to work smoothly. I was a little concerned that I had the clutch levers set up properly according to measurements I took from the old clutch.

I'm having some difficulty getting the steel oil lines fitted back into the tub. They appear to have been twisted and bent before I began work on the tractor. I remember they were kind of a tangled mess when I took it apart. Just wondering if it would be advisable to replace some of them with a rubber line and tidy things up with retainer clips.

I want to change the rubber hoses which attach to the oil coolers and the steel lines anyway and it would not be difficult to just run a new oil line to the back of the tub.

Once I get that sorted out I will lift the engine back into the tractor tub and align the Over/Under with the transmission.



Any thoughts or suggestions are always appreciated.