Oliver 1365 rear end oil leak.

nickscuda · Jan 22, 2017

Been working on this tractor for a couple months now. I had never had the rear end oil at the proper level yet. I replaced a leaking transfer case output seal, then filled the rear end to the proper level. Now wouldn't you know it, I have another leak, this time coming out of the brake drum area ( cotter pin hanging from hole). It seems now that the oil is at the proper level its at the axle seal. Wondering what kind of can of worms I'm getting into going at it. Looks like the diff side bearing retainer has to come out? can this be done without complete rear end disassembly?

rrlund · Jan 25, 2017

I was hoping Mitch Poindexter would see this post,he's had his broken down about as far as you can take one.

nickscuda · Jan 25, 2017

Ya, so went to the garage tonight ( to re-seal the top cover of the injector pump) and found a puddle of oil under the other side coming out of the same cotter pin hole. I think my big fear is that when I get in there I'll find the carrier side bearings gone causing the whole problem. Pretty much been over the whole rest of the tractor and thought I was almost done with it. All I did was put the rear end oil at the proper level - AHHHH. lol

nickscuda · Jan 25, 2017

So, I got thinking, I filled the rear end/hydraulics/ transmission through the hole right beside/under the seat. Did I over fill the rear end? thinking about the proper oil level in relation to the axle seals. because this wasn't leaking before I topped the oil up, before I toped it up the level was only JUST below the bottom line on the normal level area ( there was still oil in it).

Mitch Poindexter · Jan 25, 2017

I replaced the rear axle seals while I had mine completely torn down because they were leaking into the brake housing as it sounds like yours are. The cotter pins really threw me for a loop in the drain holes, I assumed that they were installed so that during operation they would vibrate some and keep the drain hole open so water/mud/etc. would drain out and keep the brakes clean, but that's a guess. The differential and carrier bearings in the 1365 are pretty substantial, so I wouldn't be too worried about that. Replacing those seals does require taking the axle housings off, which are a bit unwieldy but straightforward. Whole process wasn't terrible, the old seals were definitely brittle from age, and in my instance, terribly poor maintenance over its previous life. The seals are pressed into the differential bearing cover on each side of the housing, so they have to come off to be replaced. The bearings are tapered rollers and you shim for proper preload.

Happy to answer any questions I can, as Randy mentioned, there weren't any bolts left in mine when I finished tearing it down, so I've seen under the hood.

nickscuda · Jan 26, 2017

Thanks very much for the reply Mitch. I was hoping I could do the seals without taking the complete rear housing off and taking the carrier out and stuff. As my project comes along I to am becoming a bit of a fiat guru, lol. This tractor of mine was also kind of neglected in its previous life and is killing me with little stupid things to fix before actually using it. What's really a problem is when I have to tell my wife " another $200 into the tractor". lol.

So as long as I do one side at a time the carrier should sit in place as I take the side bearing housings off sounds like? Thanks.

Mitch Poindexter · Jan 27, 2017

I did the carrier one side at a time, but I don't know that you need to do it that way, it just helped me keep shims straight.

Oliver 1365 rear end oil leak.

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