1850 clutch fork shaft replacemant

eye4iron

Member
I decided to try and replace the clutch fork and cross shaft on my 1850 gas without pulling the engine. I took my time and shoved shop towels under the cross shaft so if I dropped a bolt or the cross shaft washer it would not fall in the pressure plate or in the bottom of the clutch housing. The whole job took about an hour. The shaft does clear the frame when sliding it out but not by much.
After I was done the shaft arm in the rest position is just forward of vertical just like I was told it should be. When I went to adjust and hook up the pedal rod I found out (and can now see) that someone had cut the pedal rod to shorten it to compensate for the gained free play. I'll have to get another pedal rod.
All in all the job wasn't that bad or hard but it is tight working quarters.
 
Yes. I thought about that. And maybe I'll have to. If I did I
would want to know the original length. I run a JD 530 baler
with this tractor. String tie no bale kicker. That means I'm on
the clutch while it is tiring and unloading the bale. I need a rod
that won't break. An over lap of the rod and welded would be
strong enough. A butt weld of the rod may break.
 
Do a good butt weld on it , then slip a close fitting steel sleeve over it and weld that too, bet you can't break it now !
 
I could give it a try with the butt weld and sleeve idea. Does anyone know the correct length for a clutch rod on a 1850 gas?
 

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