1555 Clutch Problem Revisited

MIDan

Member
I bought a 1555 diesel this summer, nice tractor, but the clutch pedal would go almost all the way to the bottom before beginning to disengage. The disengagement is only in the last 3/4" before pedal bottoms out. I looked at adjusting the pedal, but there was no adjustment left. So, I thought a new clutch must be in order.

Installed a new clutch in September, same problem.

So, it's been waiting for me to get back to it. Took it apart again this afternoon; got some measurements.

Pedal rod moves 1 1/4"

Clutch lever moves 1 5/8" before contacting the fingers

Adjusted the clutch fingers to 9/32" top of finger to top of housing as indicated in the clutch packaging.

The fork looks good.

Hopefully I can get some pictures to load.

It looks like I need 3/4" to 1" to bring the clutch action up to where it should be.

Thanks.
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I'm no expert on these but the only places for adjustment are the rod which you say has no more adjustment left and the set up of the clutch fingers.

This is provided there are no worn bushings or damaged connections in the whole linkage and the clutch fork is installed the correct way. It usually has an off set position which causes it to move forward against the clutch fingers. It must be tight on the cross shaft and the key and key way in good condition.which it appears it is from your picture.

You mentioned setting the fingers at 9/32 to top of clutch housing before installation. Usually there is a measurement for the pressure plate face and a flat surface prior to adjusting the fingers.

Most times your new clutch is held by 3 bolts to simulate the position of the pressure plate when it is installed against the clutch disk and flywheel.

Often you need to take two measurements. A measurement between the pressure plate and a flat surface with the clutch sitting on this surface pressure plate side down and adjust these retaining bolts before adjusting the fingers. If this is the type of set up you have they will give you that measurement. Then adjust the fingers to the 9/32 measurement they gave you.

If the fingers are adjusted with the pressure plate not being compressed as it would be when installed this will give you a false reading of the fingers and would cause the lack of release you mention at the foot pedal.

In this situation when you install the pressure plate the fingers would move inward and the measurement would not be correct when installed. To check. as it is hard to tell from your picture, take a measurement of the fingers as it is installed now.

I also noticed it has a depressed center, is the measurement from this center or from the outer most surface of the pressure plate itself? Usually its the outer most surface but check the instructions that came with the clutch. The instructions usually give you all this setup info along with correct measurements.

Hopefully some of this info helpful to you. Good luck
 
I adjusted the clutch fingers according to the instructions given with the new clutch. The linkages are worn, but reasonably tight.

This morning I measured from the front of the clutch housing to the face of the throwout bearing and then also from the back of the the engine block to the clutch release fingers. With
the bearing all the way back the calculated distance to the fingers is 15/16 to 1 1/16".

So, the lever must travel about an inch before it even touches the clutch. And with a total of 1 1/4" travel available, there's my problem...

So, do the parts look correct? Did a previous owner change something?

I'm thinking adding about an 1 1/4" to the pedal rod may be the simplest fix...

Thanks
DAN
 
I'll offer an opinion I wonder if the clutch rods aren't a little short on those tractors? I have a 1550 gas that the clutch works perfect except its like yours doesn't disengage until
its almost bottomed out and the adjustment is out all the way.I'm thinking of using a longer rod to see if that works.Supposedly this tractor had the engine rebuilt and a new clutch installed a couple years before I bought it.
 
The fork is keyed to the cross shaft on an offset. Take that apart and see if it was put together backwards. that's what I found on an 880 setup.
 
Have you taken the whole outfit,clutch,pressure plate and flywheel to a good clutch shop so they can set the pressure plate? I take the bulk of mine to Clutch Dynamics in Lansing Michigan. I put a new clutch disc in my 1550 without taking everything in and it was a mistake. I had to take a clevis for the rod to the pedal,and weld a nut on it to make it longer so the clutch would release. It's been about three years and it still hasn't worn down enough for me to put the original back on. I should put the loader on it and wear it out a little.
 
From the looks of the throwout fork on the bearing holder, it is on backwards. Pull it out and reverse it and see if that helps.
 
I recently worked on my E-4 clutch. Very similar but 4-fingered. Custom Clutch in Cleveland gave me the finger specs. The finger height is set from the flywheel surface to the fingers with the pressure plate compressed and a specific sized spacer to simulate the clutch disc. When mine was done the did not protrude very far above the nuts. Yours look too long.
 
When the throwout bearing contacts the release levers the arm should almost be at a right angle to the floor if I remember right. Also is your flywheel counterbored 1/8 of an inch? You seam to have a lot of bolt sticking out too. We had a 1555 in the shop last week. I don't know if it is still there. If it still there when I come back next week I can take some measurements. I will call tomorrow and also get you some dimensions tomorrow. Send me an e-mail and include your phone number. J.
 

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