1550 Cat I setup

Mike(NEOhio)

Well-known Member
Location
Newbury, Ohio
The sway blocks are flared out at the top and push the links outward when they raise. The lift arm free play is set right. If something is mounted on the hitch can this break the claws? What is usually done to avoid this? I want to put a 7ft. snow blower on it that can be set up for Cat I or II but I don't have the Cat II pins. Should I put a stop screw in the quadrant or adjust the free play so it doesn't lift to high.
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I think there are a couple ways to go about it. I think you can remove the spacers on the arms themselves, between the arm and plate with the slight bend in it. That would give an extra inch per side, which would make a bigger difference at the ends of the arms.

Donovan from Wisconsin
 
Same problem I have both one and two for one you have to remove the block on the arms for two put them back on . I use extra long bolt with nut on back as often as I have to do it that keeps them from coming loose. Check your sway block I think one of mine is the wrong one the bolt head will catch when you raise it up.
 
I've got mine on with the wide side down. They work fine with my Cat1 brush hog. If that doesn't work for you,could you just take those pins out of your blower and put the bolt on kind on the outer bars,or aren't they strong enough?
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Randy, mine were like that when I got it but I don't think PO was using it for 3 point work. I think it would for the arms out when they're down. The book shows them with the flare up but is a little confusing. It also says to turn the sway blocks with the flat side out for CAT II. I kind of assumed the flares were to keep it centered when the implement was lifted and give a little side play when it's down. I haven't put the blower on yet so I'll check everything out when I do. I also have to make sure the drive shaft doesn't bottom out. Did that once on the Ford and punched the PTO shaft in about 1/8 inch, luckily no damage but it did put a good nick in the yoke pin.
 
Don, that would also make it swing more when it's down. I'll be pushing backwards. Easiest way would be put a screw in the quadrant to limit the lift at the control lever and keep the arms close to the blocks. I'll post back when I figure it out.
 
How does that work going down the road? With round bales wouldn't there be a lot of slop? On mine I keep the flare up so if you hit something it will bounce off and with the narrow front I can get it to follow around a post by a little side pressure and lifting the three point. How much slack is there when there down like that it would be nice on a side hill to have it straight behind the tractor .
 
I don't carry round bales on that one. I used the 3pt hay rake on it all summer though. I put the pins in the inside Cat1 holes. Very little side movement that way for Cat1. Would be a lot for Cat2.
 
I extended the rods to the 7 inch maximum. I can get almost all the way up before it contacts the flares. I'll take the easy way and put a bolt in to stop the control lever. Pictures are with the blower about an inch off the floor. I'm going to try flipping the blocks to the flat side tomorrow. I could also shift the balls to the outside of the arms.
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I would like to see more pics of this nice Oliver thats painted and where do you get those arms that doesn't have the claw on them/ I'd like some for my 1555, thanks again
 
Here's a couple more pics. You should be able to find the replacement weld on 3pt arm ends at your local farm supply, pretty sure these came from Tractor Supply, but I'd have to look again. They're definitely available though if you need them.
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That's a beautiful tractor, I have a 1555 diesel with the claw hitch, so you cut off the claws and welded these on?
 
These were already on this tractor when I got it, but yep that's pretty much it. The weld on replacements are probably 6 inches long and beveled already for welding.
 

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