1975 White 2-105 O/U Drive Overhaul

MinniMan

Member
My O/U Drive slips in over drive. It seems ok in direct and under drive.

The input shaft is worn where it rides in the pilot bearing due to miss alignment of the PTO hub.

Can someone suggest where I could order this part (new or used) and probably the clutch plates, separator plates and specific bearings as may be required?

The input shaft and over drive clutches I know I will need are listed below, using Agco Part #'s.

30-3093042 Shaft And Gear - Input
165146A Plate - Clutch Separator
165147A Plate - Clutch Driven (Alternate 30-3214346)

I already have the complete reseal kit on hand for this unite.

All comments and advice on overhauling the O/U drive will be appreciated.
 
See f you can mmoch a look at the service bulletins as I recall some changes in the spline counts on the drums, and friction material changes to be used with universal tractor fluid instead of atf/Dexron.
 
(quoted from post at 07:49:35 11/02/16) My O/U Drive slips in over drive. It seems ok in direct and under drive.

The input shaft is worn where it rides in the pilot bearing due to miss alignment of the PTO hub.

Can someone suggest where I could order this part (new or used) and probably the clutch plates, separator plates and specific bearings as may be required?

The input shaft and over drive clutches I know I will need are listed below, using Agco Part #'s.

30-3093042 Shaft And Gear - Input
165146A Plate - Clutch Separator
165147A Plate - Clutch Driven (Alternate 30-3214346)

I already have the complete reseal kit on hand for this unite.

All comments and advice on overhauling the O/U drive will be appreciated.
should have all the parts you need. call at 512-633-5014
 
Thank you Ian & Larry for your comments and contact number.

I have to disassemble the unite as I am just completing the engine overhaul re-assembly. Once I have the O/U apart I will have a better idea of all the parts needed.

I will retain your number Larry. Thank you.

I don't have access to service bulletins for updates Ian, but I will pay particular attention to the number of splines etc when ordering parts. Specific details and pictures can be very helpful.

I appreciate the advice and help from you both very much.
 
Update: Hopefully what I have done so far may help someone else if they have a problem with their O/U drive.

I have disassembled the O/U drive and have come up with the following issues and solutions.

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Pump cover removed

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View of pump and cover checked out ok


The input shaft as mentioned before is worn on the pilot bearing end due to a previous crooked PTO hub installation. Upon removal it also had wear on the splines where the direct drive clutch disks run. So no question but to have to replace the shaft.

42489.jpg


Note the wear on the input shaft splines. This shaft new is very expensive. I was quoted over $2200 Cdn. However I was fortunate to locate a used one still serviceable in Canada.

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Removed the input shaft bearing in case the used replacement shaft bearing needed replacing. Bearing checked out ok after removal. I have a new bearing and seal for inside the shaft.

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Note the worn lugs on the fiber clutch disks on the direct drive. New clutches and separator disks needed as the plates were pitted. The worn lugs are particularly evident on the rearmost disks probably due to the wobble of the crooked PTO hub.

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Rear over drive clutch housing, piston and out put shaft bearing looks ok. Just new piston seals and rings.

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Counter shaft and support shaft looks ok

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The sprag clutch was almost in pieces and fell apart when I removed it so I had to order a new one. Not cheap! but at least the races on the shaft and hub it runs on were not worn or damaged.

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The direct drive hub had a lot of debris between the splines from the worn clutches which I cleaned out.



42497.jpg


I thoroughly cleaned the O/U housing and all internal parts. The over drive clutches were worn out almost completely so they had to be replaced too. Sorry don't have pictures of them on here.

It's not a very complicated mechanism and if you follow the book carefully you should be able to overhaul the O/U and save yourself some money.

Once I get the last of the parts I am waiting on I will review the assembly procedure of my project.
 
Direct Drive Clutch replacement update.

42589.jpg


New O-Rings and Sealing Rings installed on the direct drive piston

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Arrow points to piston installed in the output shaft.

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Pressure plate some slight marking but still serviceable


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Note the worn teeth on the fiber clutch disks compared to the new ones. The old disks still measured within specs for wear but wiser to replace to prevent failure of the worn teeth.

42593.jpg


The old separator plates showed signs of wear and pitting. I replaced the old ones to match the new clutch plates.

42594.jpg


Once all the internal clutch plates were installed and the back plate and lock ring was in place note the misalignment of the clutch plate teeth.

42595.jpg


To facilitate installation of the input shaft later, align the clutch disks with a screw driver.

It isn't difficult to rebuild this drive although you need a press to compress the direct drive piston return spring. It's tricky to compress it and remove and replace the snap ring. I had to make up a tool with two legs to depress the retainer and get clearance to work with the snap ring. Be careful of this task.
 
Update: installing sealing rings

This has proven the most difficult part of the project so far. Getting the new rings hooked together is not for the faint of heart as I found when removing the old ones the little hooks will snap off very easily.

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The X is the broken off hook and the check mark is the hook. This is the old sealing ring.

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Sealing rings installed in the grooves of the output shaft but not hooked together. Note the tiny hooks on each end of these rings.

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Sealing rings hooked together. I found this very difficult to do. Used a pair of slip joint pliers and a small pick to lift the one end over the other of the ring until it slipped down and hooked. Be very careful as these tiny hooks will break very easily.

Anyone have a better solution to install and hook these rings? I still have 4 more larger ones to install.
 
Update: A trick that worked to remove and replace the sealing rings

If you simply pry the sealing rings off you will break the tiny hooks that join them together. This is not a problem when installing new ones but I had trouble getting the new rings to hook together.

I found by using a suitable sized gear hose clamp, screw driver to tighten the clamp and a couple of picks I was able to remove the old rings without damage and easily replace the new ones.

I placed the hose clamp around the sealing ring. Then slipped a pick between the hose clamp and ring to hold the one end in the groove. Keeping the gear screw of the hose clamp a distance from where the ring joined I tightened the clamp enough until the ring hooks parted. Then using a pick with a hook on it I was able to raise the opposite end of the ring to unhook it without damage.

When replacing the ring I installed the ring in the groove and then used the second pick to raise the one end of the ring over the one held in the groove by the clamp and the pick which was on top of the end of the ring in the groove as shown in the pic. I tightened the clamp so the ends would pass over each other and then let the end I held up with the pick drop down into the groove. They would hook together. I found this worked well without damage to the hooks on the ring ends.

Hopefully this idea will help someone else who is faced with this task. It takes a little time and work carefully but it worked well for me.

42745.jpg


The top arrow shows the clamp, second arrow the pick used to hold the one end of the ring in the groove and the third arrow the second pick (laying on the hub) that I used to raise the one end over the other. Then tighten the clamp until the hooks pass each other and drop down and hook together.
 
Over/Under Update

I got the unite all reassembled and filled with oil. I wasn't able to pressure test it as the drill I had wasn't powerful enough to spin it over to build pressure. But I was able to check the sprag clutch was working and the other two clutches were engaging by using compressed air before installing the pump and cover. So now it is closed up and ready to install on the engine.
 

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