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Rod bolts in 310 diesel

O

oliver1755

Member
Hello,

I'm thinking about changing the rod bolts in my 1755 from the 6 point to 12 point bolts. I'm planning on changing the leaking oil pan gasket and was going to do this at the same time. Can I change them, one at a time, without worrying about affecting the bearings? The engine has around 200 hours on an overhaul and it didn't cross my mind to replace them at that point.

Thanks
 
Don't torque the rod bolts until they are both installed. In other words don't change one and torque it then change the other. I bought the bolts from Agco. Others sell 12 pt. bolts for less and maybe they are ok but I don't like taking chances on something so important.
 
What is the deal with the 6 and 12 pt. bolts?? I've got a 1755 here that I just tore down, it still had the 6 pt bolts. It don't get used hard anymore...but 15-20 yrs ago....I worked the snot out of it ( plowing in clay ground, 4 stack weights, and 1 front tire about 12" off the ground most of the time) and never had any trouble with the engine. Now that I have it tore down, I am replacing the rod bolts...just wondered what the difference was. My old bolts didn't have washers...they tell me the new 12 pts. need washers...why?? Thanks
 
The 12 pts. are a better bolt. Most of the ventilated 310 blocks were caused by broken rod bolts and loose wrist pin bushings. The washers keep the bolt head from burrowing into the rod and thus not getting the proper torque and stretch on them. The bolts from Korves don't use washers while the ones from AGCO do.
 
So, do the bolts from Korves have a flanged head?? If not, then I'm guessing would be better off with the bolts with washers from Agco??
 
Yes they have a flanged head that isn't supposed to require a washer. The bolts from Korves are probably ok and definitely cheaper than AGCO but I bought the AGCO bolts for the 1755 that I am bringing back to life.
 
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