1850 clutch adjustment

eye4iron

Member
My 1850 clutch adjust has approx 5" of free play. When I step all the way down on the pedal ( full stroke) the clutch arm and the clutch linkage just about line up in a straight line. In other words the arm cannot move any further. So if I adjust the free play out or move the linkage in the lower hole it makes the clutch work worse. Is it time for a clutch? As the clutch wears does it gain free play or loses it?
 
Here is a picture of the clutch rod with the clutch arm when the pedal is fully depressed. Notice it is at full stroke and it is impossible to move the arm further. With the pedal not depressed I removed the upper cover from the bell housing and I could feel that there is a lot of space between the throw-out bearing and the pressure plate fingers. About 3/8" to 1/2". ( A lot of free play ) Almost as if the fingers have dropped or worn badly. That would be unusual if all dropped the same at on time. The tractor was bought used from a dealer in the mid 1980's. It has never had a clutch put in while we have had it.
When the tractor is warmed up it is hard to get it out of gear. It will come out but not with ease like it should. I does go in OK with patients.
So here's my thoughts;
My stroke is being wasted by the free travel.
If I remove the free travel (shorten the adjustment rod)then the clutch arm is almost straight with the pedal rod and there is no pedal stroke.
Wrong throw out bearing from years ago.
Clutch arm rod is twisted or has slipped at the fork.
Main bearing thrust bearing is worn badly.
Has anyone seen this before? I may be looking at pulling the engine to replace the clutch and etc. but I would hate to do that and then have the same problem.
a240788.jpg
 
I have a 1550 that had similar issues. What I finally found was bearing fork was installed backwards on the cross shaft. You may be able to see it through the inspection hole and compare it to another tractor. I know 1850 and 1550 are different, But it's something you can check.
 
There's a washer (of sorts) wedged in the fork that fits a slot in the clutch shaft. It could be possible that washer broke or bent and the fork has rotated on the shaft. Don't remember if it's possible to put the fork on backward on the 17+bigger tractors, but that could be a possibility as well. Also, you should be able to adjust the fingers in the pressure plate out some if everything on the fork and shaft are correct. Don't know specs for that off hand, but I'm sure J.S. probably has them.
 
I can understand the washer bent or a fork on backwards. I just adjusted the pressure plate fingers on my D-17 earlier this year and it helped a lot. Can the fingers on the 1850 be adjusted or the fork serviced without pulling the bell housing?
 
The arm should be in the vertical position. I don't have my 1850 parts book in front of me but I think there is an inspection cover held on with 4 little cap screws that you can remove to look in there. Maybe one of the pivot bolts broke off? You have a phone number or e-mail? Also is this an early or late 1850, in other words does it have a button or an organic clutch disk?
 
(quoted from post at 07:31:22 10/26/16) Possibly? If you pull the fuel tank.

I have had the upper plate off but I couldn't look down there. I'll have to get my mirror next time.
I did reach down there a felt the large gap between the clutch fingers and the throw-out bearing. Seems like if I have to work thru that cover hole it would be easier to pull the engine to look in there and replace the old clutch at the same time. It would be great if I could verify the problem before that. Pulling the fuel tank is a good idea.
 
I pulled the inspection cover and could see that the fork and shaft are a loose fit and the shaft groove and washer is worn very badly. The book says the shaft and fork can be pulled out without pulling the engine. Has anyone had to do this?
 

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