Update on Sleeve installation
Just in case anyone else happens to be replacing sleeves I thought an update might be helpful. I know I would have been thrilled to have read this information along with pictures.
I tried the setup first using an old sleeve to make sure I had clearance with the press, puck and pusher rod. I had to do the installation in two steps by adjusting the nuts on the 1 inch pusher rod to bottom the sleeve. Also to make sure I could level the block with the anvil of the press so the sleeves would go in straight, I used a small square to align the sleeve with the crankcase block on both sides moving it so it was vertical by gently tapping the sleeve with a rubber hammer. Before installation I compared the OD measurements of the old sleeves and the new ones and they were the same diameter.
Once I was satisfied everything looked straight I used the press to install the new sleeve. They were a firm push but not overly tight. The puck I had made worked perfectly to push the sleeve in without damaging the firewall protrusion.
I raised the block using the engine hoist just enough so I could slid the press forward to install the next sleeve. I installed #1 #3 #5 and then the even number sleeves. I also measured the firewall height above the block after each sleeve was installed to make sure they were all the same height. Don't over push the sleeves once they bottom in the recess in the block. It would be possible to break the flange at the top of the sleeve and you would have to get another sleeve and repeat the installation for the damaged one. I was careful about this and all went well.
Engine lift to raise the block.
A sleeve almost installed. Note the sleeve flange as it entered the recessed portion of the crankcase. Just as it was about to enter the recess I stopped and even though I had cleaned and polished this recess I gave it a final blow out with compressed air to make sure nothing had dropped in that would prevent the sleeve from bottoming in the recess.
With the cylinder bores cleaned very well and lubricated a 20 ton press easily pushed the new sleeves into place.
Next I removed the camshaft and tappets, cleaned them and checked the lobs and tappets for signs of wear or breaking down of the hardened surfaces. All appeared serviceable including the cam bearings so I reassembled the tappets in their respective bores as well the cam shaft. Be careful when pulling or installing the camshaft not to damage the cam bearings with the sharp edges of the lobes.
I used assembly lube on the tappets and cam bearings to provide lubrication upon engine start up. I also used the same lube on the main bearings and torqued them to spec. I did the torque in a step process rather than to the final torque and alternated each main bearing bolt. I did the rear, center and front mains then worked back and forth on the intermediate mains to evenly torque the crankshaft. Once done it turned freely but the assembly lube being thick does make it a little stickier than when it was original with just normal engine oil.
I didn't platiguage the main bearings as the crank was standard size as are the new bearings. Maybe are error! I HOPE not but the crank seems to turn smoothly.
I had new connecting rod bushings installed at a machine shop to fit the new wrist pins as the bushing require reaming to very close tolerances. There was some wear in the old bushings so best to replace them.
Next step will be to fit the pistons to the rods taking care to install the snap rings completely into the groves in the pistons and of course lube the wristpin bushing as they are assembled. Then to fit the rings into the sleeve bores to check for end clearance and stall them on the pistons.
Sorry some of the pictures are sideways but I don't always remember to turn my cell sideways to take a picture so it turns out the right way on the pc.
Hopefully this setup and information will be helpful to someone else sometime.
Thank you to everyone who messaged me and for the advice and suggestions. I appreciate it very much. In future I will need more I am sure. I hope you find this thread interesting on this rebuild I am happy to continue it with pictures if it can help someone else.