Early White 2-105 engine oil pump removal

I am at the point of removing the engine oil pump. All the plumbing and pickup are removed and now the set screw which holds the pump in the crankcase must come out. I removed the cap nut to expose the set screw which has a slot for a screw driver. However it is very tight and no screw driver will turn it even with a wrench turning the screw driver. I am afraid of either breaking or bending the head of the screw with too much force.
I wondered about putting a nut on the threads of the set screw to prevent damaging the slot so it will take more torque and using an impact drill with a slotted driver. The other option I considered was welding a nut on the set screw and using a wrench.
However if either of these options fail it could create an even worse situation.
Has anyone else had issues removing this set screw? What did you do to take it out? It is pointed on the inside end or flat? Would a regular fine thread bolt replace this set screw?
Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

Do you have a hand impac driver? Have you done the "bees wax trick"? A little heat may also be your friend.

I picked up an impact driver today. Will try a nut on the end of the setscrew to protect the slot from spearing or breaking. If that doesn't work I'll try your other suggestions.
Is it a flat or tapered end on the sets few?
I have put penitrating oil on it and will try limited heat on the cast block.

If you heat the area to a dull red which will not hurt, put some good bees wax on the threads as will.

Thanks John

I used the impact driver and although it slipped in my hand initially by using a pair of vice grips to hold the impact handle after 3 or 4 good taps with the hammer it gave up and came out. I put a nut on the setscrew to prevent spreading the slot in the end for the diver blade. I am glad no heating was necessary.

I removed piston #1 and the oil ring was pretty carboned up so it appeared it wouldn't control oil well. It was obvious that blow by was passing down the sides of the wrist pins by the amount of soot. The bearings showed some wear but not through to the backing and the oil pressure was always up good. I will install new bearings for both rods and mains.

There was only a slight ridge at the top of the sleeve, nothing to cause a problem removing the pistons. Still cross hatch pattern showing in most of the sleeve. But I have new ones along with pistons, rings, wrist pins and rod bushings.

Once I have all the pistons out I will need advice on how best to remover the harmonic balancer bolt and sleeve since I want to install both oil seals on the crankshaft. Also I am still pondering removing the old sleeves. I think with the crankshaft removed it will be easier and less danger of damaging a journal.

As always thanks for the advice. It is appreciated very much.

I glad to hear that you are replacing the sleeves and Pistons , not just a ring job, on my '75 2-105 we did just a ring job one time, never slowed
the oil consumption one darned bit, and this tractor was used hard and heavy as it was my main tillage tractor. Ran it 1 year with the new ring
job, next year it was completely rebuilt, cam bearings, injector pump drive gears and the special washer under the brass gears, the whole nine
yards, even installed a mechanical oil pressure gauge as it has always been a little low on oil pressure, mechanic even shimmed the oil
pressure relief valve with a couple on thin 1/4 in flat washers to help raise oil pressure a little bit.
It's still running good, but is mostly retired to blade and loader duty on a grain farm, but did mow road banks and waterways with a 15 ft Bushog
3 section rotary cutter this year.

(quoted from post at 16:59:26 08/29/16) I glad to hear that you are replacing the sleeves and Pistons , not just a ring job, on my '75 2-105 we did just a ring job one time, never slowed
the oil consumption one darned bit, and this tractor was used hard and heavy as it was my main tillage tractor. Ran it 1 year with the new ring
job, next year it was completely rebuilt, cam bearings, injector pump drive gears and the special washer under the brass gears, the whole nine
yards, even installed a mechanical oil pressure gauge as it has always been a little low on oil pressure, mechanic even shimmed the oil
pressure relief valve with a couple on thin 1/4 in flat washers to help raise oil pressure a little bit.
It's still running good, but is mostly retired to blade and loader duty on a grain farm, but did mow road banks and waterways with a 15 ft Bushog
3 section rotary cutter this year.

Click to expand...

Thank you for your comments.

My son purchased this tractor about a year ago, maybe paid a bit much although the overall unit looked in decent shape. Tires on rear are good and new fronts. Cab and interior worn but not wrecked. However it turned out it burned oil like crazy. Started well and ran smooth but smoked blue smoke and oil ran down the exhaust.
I had the turbo checked and it appeared ok. The oil pressure was right up in the green even when hot. I wonder if I should add shims just to make sure the oil pressure is at the top end? It also slipped in over drive so I have that to contend with once the engine is done.

I ordered a complete overhaul kit and am slowly working on it as time permits. I just have the crank to pull and am waiting to have a sleeve puller come to remove the sleeves. Ordered it today at a custom machining shop. So hope it works ok.

The timing gears look good, not enough play to replace them and in general the inside of the engine appears not worn too much. The bearings show some wear but I will replace both main and rod bearings along with the wrist pins.

The rings were carboned up pretty bad as was the head. The pistons show varnish down the sides of the wrist pins. I am putting in new valves, guides and seals as well as springs and had the injectors done. The injectors were in rough shape needed new nozzles and adjusting.

I have a new pressure plate and clutch disk although the one I removed had been replaced recently as only .004 wear on the pads. So could be used again if anyone needed one. I think the throw out bearing was replaced as well as the pilot bearing.
But I have a new throw out bearing and pilot bearing. I have the flywheel away to be resurfaced for the new clutch. Starter ring gear looks perfect with not chipped or worn teeth.

Someone put the PTO hub in cocked so have to replace that. The splines were worn in it and the shaft has a bit of wear but hope to get by with it for a while.

I'd like to get a kit for the water pump as there is a little play on the shaft although it wasn't leaking at all. I also have a couple of stud bolts to replace on the exhaust manifold as the threads are poor but the manifold isn't cracked.

It has the non adjustable front axle and I noticed that it appears the center bushing is worn as it comes close to touching the vertical steering shaft. Haven't gotten into that part yet. Just removed the steering cylinder and cleaned the whole tub the motor sits in of grease and dirt.

So I am hoping once completed it will make a decent tractor for baling. Maybe put a loader on it to move bales with. I will repaint the inside of the tub and the engine, clutch housing and over under once they are done.

I appreciate your advice on an overhaul. It's a lot of work to take the engine out and do it so I want to make sure everything is done right.