1975 White 2-105

I've removed the over/under drive and clutch pressure plate. It doesn't looked scored or ridged. The flywheel has what appears to be minor cracks on the pressure surface.

What I was wondering does anyone have the measurements for the thickness of the pads on a new driven disk? It would be easy to measure with a caliper and compare to a new one. They look decent but just wondered if I should be replacing parts in this area.

The throw out bearing seems to be free and smooth spinning but might be wise to replace it since everything is apart. The sleeve slides smoothly on the support tube no side play or wear showing.

Thanks for your advice in advance

While you are there I would replace the pressure plate, the clutch disc, the throw out bearing, and the pilot bearing. If there is any doubt on the flywheel I would get it milled also. Run your finger across the flywheel and make sure it is not wavy . Button clutches tend to be a little hard on flywheels. Make sure the rear seal on the engine is not leaking. Check the splines on the PTO drive hub and look over the O/U for leaks. Now is the time to fix any little problems.

When I did mine last month,as hard as it was to get that engine out,I did it all. I took the flywheel,clutch and pressure plate to Clutch Dynamics and had the flywheel resurfaced,had the pressure plate rebuilt and had a new clutch made. I put a new throw out bearing in since that was the problem in the first place,and a new pilot bearing.
I wouldn't pull another one of those engines and put it back in for somebody else for $500 if they waved it under my nose in cash,and I didn't have that much in to everything I did.

Thanks 2-sroke.

Yes the suggestions you make are excellent. I think from appearances the pressure plate may have been changed fairly recently. Its very clean and non of the linkages show signs of wear. The three pressure bolts on the forks are shinny with little flat spots. This is about the only sign of wear. Pedal travel was in spec before I disassembled the clutch. I'll measure up the pilot bushing against specs in the book.

I just wanted to compare the thickness of the pads on the driven plate to be sure it isn't worn as this would be the first area to show wear. There are no thickness specs in the IT manual for the pads. Maybe they are not available.

The PTO hub appears tight on the shaft although it hadn't been installed correctly. That is why there was a little wear on one side of the shaft splines. It was slightly cocked in the recess it is located in, in the flywheel. A sure sign someone has had it apart and didn't take care when reassembling it. I also noticed not all the bolts were torqued to the same specs when I took it apart.

I have a complete engine over haul kit which includes new crank seals for both ends. I did notice the rear seal must have some leakage as there was a small amount of engine oil in the clutch housing but non on the clutch assembly.

One of the stud bolts holding the pressure plate to the flywheel broke when I loosened them off. Apparently over torqued. I expect that will be miserable to remove. Might be wise to take it to a machine shop for resurfacing and removal of the broken bolt. I didn't notice any waviness on the face of the flywheel. The ring gear looks good no chipped or badly worn teeth on either the ring gear or starter drive.

After seeing the PTO hub misalignment I'm hoping they haven't been into the engine any further. This tractor was purchased at a sale last fall, so I'm not familiar with its history. Its a huge job to even do the clutch so I know its best to replace anything in question.

I'm also going into the Over/under as it slipped in over drive but wasn't leaking oil. There is forward and backward movement on the over/under input shaft is this to be expected? I haven't checked the manual on this yet.

Thanks for the wise advice it is appreciated.

A little movement on the O/U input shaft is normal as it just rides on a ball bearing. There is no pilot bushing it is a bearing and you definitely want to replace it. The PTO drive hub is tough to get in right on those they fit so tight that they want to cock from side to side as you have seen.

You are 100% right on both counts. Not sure what I was thinking when I was typing the reply to suggest a bushing. It is definitely a bearing used as a pilot for the input shaft. You are also right about the hub being difficult to put together straight and this one was not straight at all. I rechecked the fit on the PTO shaft since the first time I slipped it on the shaft backwards and it seemed reasonably tight. But when I turned it the way it is supposed to go on it was much sloppier. Obviously worn by being miss aligned. So I guess add a hub to the list of needed parts.

Suggestions for a good parts supplier are welcomed too. Just remember I am in Canada so need to have it shipped to the border where I can pick it up. Also I must deal with about a 30% lower dollar so good used parts are welcome as well.

Thank you again. I am sure I will have more questions in the future.