White 2-105 Power Take off Drive Shaft

MinniMan

Member
I am trying to remover the shaft that drives the PTO. Got the cover off and the snap ring, stub shaft and O-Ring out. Pulled the shaft out about 12 inches and it will not come any further. Have rotated the PTO shaft, the long shaft I am trying to remove, and the engine, but no luck. It will come no further.

What am I missing? I have a 1/2 threaded rod to pull the shaft with a slide hammer attached. Seems to vibrate a little when I slide the hammer.

I would appreciate any advice. I know somewhere on this site this has been discussed before but I can't seem to search for it and find the information.
 
Mine kept feeling like it was bouncing against something springy. I just kept trying and when it was lined up right,it slid right out.
You might double nut the rod and hold pressure against it with your slide hammer while you turn it a little with a wrench. You might be able to feel it hit the sweet spot.
 
Thank you very much for the advice Mr Lund.

That is exactly how it felt, hitting something slightly springy. I finally remembered someone suggested to use an impact wrench on the double nuts on the end of the ready rod. I tightened the two nuts together and used a 3/4 inch socket with the impact and in a second it must have lined up and literally slipped back and out in my hands.

There is some slight wear on the splines on the engine end of the shaft which may indicate miss alignment. Not sure how to deal with that. It looks like it could run a long time yet.

I lifted the engine out using the engine hoist and have it sitting on blocks temporarily on the tub until I make up a sturdy bench to mount it on before I remove the over/under and clutch assemblies. I was very careful to mark the location of the shims under the front motor mounts for remounting the engine. I noted the one O-Ring on the end of the over/under and wondered has anyone ever put two in before reassembly?

Again thank you for the advice it is greatly appreciated.
 
I've never put two O-rings in the trunion,but I'm always darned careful when I put them back together. I grease the living snot out of the whole area with red wheel bearing grease.
 
Mr. Lund.

Yes I have read that if that O-Ring is out of place or damaged during installation you will have an oil leak when you start the tractor up. The only way to repair it is to disassemble the whole thing by removing the engine and do it all over again. It appears that with the weight of the assembly it will be difficult to make sure no damage occurs. Rest assured I will grease it very well and take every precaution possible to prevent that happening.

I appreciate you advice very much. Thank you.
 
Hello John

Thank you for responding. As mentioned in my post I used an impact to turn the shaft and it lined up and slipped out without further problems.

I noticed some wear on the splines on the engine drive end of the shaft although not severe. I will check the hub on the engine end when it is apart as it wouldn't be difficult to replace the shaft if it ever gave trouble but the drive hub would be another story.

Is there a way to check for engine alignment while I have things apart? I have saved the shims found under the front motor mounts and marked them for each side they came from. I expect this is the reason some wear appeared on the shaft spline as it is a little more on one side of the splines than the other.

Otherwise I have the engine removed so - so far so good. I still have to disassemble it and remove the sleeves etc.

Thank you again.
 

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