That vibration in the 1850

rrlund

Well-known Member
I posted a while ago about that 1850 diesel vibrating when it's on a sidehill. I'm thinking I might have it figured out. I haven't had it in the field,it's just been on the grinder mixer,but,and I was starting to wonder if I was loosing my mind,the 2-135 started doing it. I thought that one had to be just cab mounts getting bad or something.
I had a little bit of time on my hands this afternoon,so I took the pressure washer to the 2-135 to finish cleaning up the mess from that leaky oil pressure sending unit. Both front motor mount bolts were gone. I put new ones in it,and when I used the impact wrench on the rears,they were loose too.

On the 1850,when I put that new PTO shaft and hub in it a year ago last fall,the splines on the shaft were worn off in a cone shape. Smitty told me to check the front motor mount,said I might have to shim it. It was worn real bad. I made a good guess at what it would take to bring the front back up to where it should be and shimmed it between the mount and the frame accordingly. Now I'm thinking that as bad as that thing's galled out,it might be shifting sideways when I'm on a sidehill. I'm wondering about drilling and tapping the frame to make some mounts like the 2-105 has.
Does anybody know just how to get the engine sitting so it really is lined up on the nose so those PTO splines are running true?
 
The only things I can think of without being there would be to measure from a reliable point. The only thing I can think of is the nose of the crank.

If there is is definite movement maybe you could measure the total movement and set it half way in between. If you took the chain off that might help line it up as long as both sprockets are tight.

This is just what came to mind at the moment. I'm not there

RT (just my 2?)
 
Taking about half the movement was how I shimmed it. I'd hate to go to all the trouble of making new mounts like the 2-105s have and find out it was wrong and taking PTO shafts out again.
I wonder if it would be a good start to go with the White mounts from the get go if I could find a pair in a bone yard?
I wonder too,how hard that frame is if I tried to drill and tap it?
 
they are hard but with a magnetic drill and some patience its not the end of the world, I saw one off a 1650 that looked like swiss cheese and then don filled it with fiberglass amazing how much movable wt was gained by drilling holes.
 
Randy, in the past I did 2 Oliver 1859s with brackets bolted to the frame. Oliver frames are tough, but they tap like it was made of a nice, soft metal. They are easy to drill also. I centered the motor as previously stated. Measured from the center of crank to inside of the frame. Got some 1/2 inch plate and cut pieces to make up a bracket. One thing when you weld the brackets make sure to think a little about the heat of the arc. So, when it cools it does not distort.
As for the up and down, I measured another 1850 and used the that measurement. I can not remember if I still had to shim it or not. The previously mentioned idea about the sprocket to sprocket is a good idea.
The first tractor I had shimmed wrong. I took it out discing and about 20 minutes later checked the roller chain and it was cherry red hot. On the second one did not have a problem.
Both tractors have several thousand hours on them and I have had no problems related to the brackets or early pto failure.
 
To align the flywheel center line with the transmission input center line provided the rear engine mounts are not worn and the coupling sprockets are tight. Simply remove the coupling chain and make the sprockets parallel with each other by shimming the front mount. This is easier said then done and is a real pain in the grass. Measure the outside faces of the sprockets with an offset micrometer. Shim accordingly until measurements around sprockets are equal.
 
I'm not sure about getting it straight by just aligning the sprockets. That still wouldn't tell me if the angle was right,just the height. See what I mean? I'd have to have the height and the distance of the gap between them all the way around,and then if there's any wear in the splines so there's any movement,it'd be almost impossible to be sure of the distance between.
I guess finding another 1850 and getting some measurements and hoping that was dead on would be the best way.
 
I just looked up the part number on that support. I did a search for it and found two. I don't know if they're new aftermarket or used,but I sent off a message to find out.
 
Actually, the angle is right once the distance between the sprockets, measured at the outer edge, is the same all the way around. Then you have to recheck the height between them as well. If you shim only one end of the engine, you will affect both the height and angle between the sprockets.
 
Randy, my cell phone number is 585-944-2461. When you get a chance give me a call.
 
That's the thing. The angle between the sprockets has to be right. There can't be any. Like I said,if the splines are worn,it might be a tough thing to accomplish.
I'm not going to beat myself over it right now,I've got bigger fish to fry.
 
Take a junk long pto shaft, cut the rear smooth 12" or so off, leave the rear set of splines on it. install it backwards, so both of those splines are engaged and you have a couple feet of shaft sticking out of the back of the tractor. Spin the shaft by hand, making sure the part sticking out runs true. Get your hands on a machinist level, they are terribly sensitive. Put the tractor on jackstands and level it. Now you need to find a machined flat spot on the engine, usually the valve cover gasket surface on the head will do it. Place your level there, shim the rear and fab the front so the sprockets line up and it's parallel with your mock up pto shaft and you will be happy.

Don't get White front mounts, they're not a good starting point for a 1850 frame.
 
I think I'm just going to stay with an original support. I found a good one for $175. You wouldn't have a nice one for less would you?
You can send me an email if you want to.
 
I've got one here that is kind of ugly from the crank pulley rubbing it, but it actually measures to be pretty tight. Expect your timing cover to have noticeable wear on it also.
 

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