Oliver 80 questions

Wondering where the oil fill is for the rear end, how does one check the level and should I be using 80w90 in it?
30w for the motor ok?
I understand the oil filter is no longer available, is there a aftermarket attachment to use a spin on filter?

I have ordered a manual, I won't have it for a few weeks though.
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Can't help you with your questions but that is one nice looking 80 if it runs as good as it looks you have a fine tractor
GB in MN
 
Diff oil fill should be a flat 2" cap by the shifter and 80 w 90 is good. Sae 30 is also right for the engine. The oil filter is a roll of cloth looking like a roll of toilet paper. You just lightly scrape off the crud on the outside with a butter knife and put it back in the hole. Very minimal filtration in them days.
 
Water pump worked out great. That shaft worked, impeller and belt pulley from the parts tractor, machined the pump to put a bearing in place of the bushing. Some new Teflon impregnated pump packing and she's purring away. Still have a drip, going to tighten the packing if I need to after I work up some heat. Need to pick up a bolt tomorrow for the radiator cap and ready to go for the summer.
 
The specs are out there. It used to be 90 weight gear oil in cooler climates and 140 in hot summers. The heavier oil is better for leak reduction, apparently.

The oil filter is layers of felt discs and generally is very long lived as long as scraping clean is carried out sensibly.

Some may have had a cotton waste refillable canister type as fitted to some Oliver 90s.

Do remember this is a bypass system, so the filter base with flow regulation needs to be used.

I would expect any modern engine oil of suitable viscosity would be far better than the lubes available in the 1930s.

Remember, too, that these tractors were used with non-detergent oils. Modern detergent oils may well clear out any settled deposits. The weak area might be the small oil line to the governor, leading to a possible exploded housing.
 

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