1978 White 2-135 tractor Hydraulic issues

MinniMan · May 4, 2016

Have completed the reseal of the hydraulic charge pump, pressure control valve etc. Once it is reassembled I was wondering about priming the system. I have put some oil in the two pumps (charge and hydraulic) as I replaced them. But it that enough to just start the tractor and hope it pressurises the system?

J. Schwiebert · May 4, 2016

A good rule to follow with any piston pump is to fill the pump with oil. Fill it by removing the case drain (little) line before you install it.. Then when you are ready to start it have the pressure line one or two turns loose to help in bleeding the system. Make sure you check the pressure setting of the pump compensator and also check the relief valve. The last 2 tractors we worked on with the White closed center system needed to have both the relief valve (shim adjusted) and the compensator adjusted to the proper specifications. My 2 cents worth. J.

Cas · May 4, 2016

I use a 2&1/2 gallon pesticide pump sprayer. Made a fitting to go from the sprayer hose to the hydraulic filter housing head. Pump in enough oil to knock the air out of it. Years ago on my
2-135 we replaced a pump without priming. Revved the tractor up and down for about two minutes and heard a bunch of steel on steel noise. Long story short had to go and buy another new pump. Since then I refuse to start any brand closed center system tractor without first priming with my hand sprayer.

MinniMan · May 5, 2016

Thank you for your instructions and suggestions on priming to aide the bleeding of air in the system upon start up.
Sounds like my concerns were justified if it damaged a new pump by running it without taking precautions to provide lubrication. I will fill the pump through the bleed line as suggested and leave the pressure line loose.
If I understand correctly the charge pump should prime itself? I did lubricate it upon reassembly as much as possible. Would it be wise to leave the filter canister loose to aide in bleeding air from that assembly?

MinniMan · May 5, 2016

(quoted from post at 08:19:59 05/05/16) Thank you for your instructions and suggestions on priming to aide the bleeding of air in the system upon start up.
Sounds like my concerns were justified if it damaged a new pump by running it without taking precautions to provide lubrication. I will fill the pump through the bleed line as suggested and leave the pressure line loose.
If I understand correctly the charge pump should prime itself? I did lubricate it upon reassembly as much as possible. Would it be wise to leave the filter canister loose to aide in bleeding air from that assembly?

By leaving the filter canister loose I meant until the charge pump primed as I realise it needs the filter housing to fill before hydraulic oil reaches the high pressure pump. I was thinking in terms of starting/cranking the engine until oil appears in the filter housing then shut off the engine and tighten the canister.

MinniMan · May 14, 2016

Well success finally. Once parts and lines were connected and oil replaced it fired right up and had hydraulic pressure in only seconds. I tightened the loose line from the pump to the pressure valve and it was fully operational again. Did have to replace a couple hoses that were seeping but no other leaks appeared except for the remote valves which I will be resealing.
So it seems the seal and o-rings on the charge pump were allowing air to enter the system until it reached the point of no hydraulic pressure at all. Pump was noisy and it purrs as it should now. Very lucky over all. Hope it didn't suffer too many ill effects.
Thank you to everyone who offered advice and tips. It is greatly appreciated. You are a great group and you skill and experience is a valuable resource to many,

1978 White 2-135 tractor Hydraulic issues

MinniMan

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J. Schwiebert

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Cas

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MinniMan

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MinniMan

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MinniMan

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