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Hydral shift

O

oliver1655/520

Member
Doing a major overhaul on my 1655 with an 1800B engine. I took the engine out with out removing the hydral shift. I want to take it out and place both back in together. What steps are needed to remove the unit???
 
Don't tell me you did not remove the long PTO shaft either! When you pull the pan check the rods to see if the bolts have washers on them! Measure the valve recession carefully! Post the engine serial number too as there were 2 different camshafts used!
 
You lift it out! What did you use to lift the engine out? What about the questions I asked you about the rods before one flys through the block?
 
The way you worded that just sounds funny. Generally, you leave the engine and over/under bolted together. If the head bolts are in the right position, you only have to put a lighting eye on the one bolt and it balances out nicely. The other is for lifting the engine only to balance it.

Add long as you have the long shaft pulled out the back of the tractor, you're going to have to wrap a chain or sling around it to lift it. Way harder than leaving it bolted to the engine and liftingdas a unit.

Donovan from Wisconsin
 
If you tried to pull the engine with the over/under attached and found you couldn't with because of the PTO drive shaft, make sure you check to make sure the shaft didn't get bent in the process.
 
Rod caps did not have washers on them the engine ran and had a blown head gasket. I done a valve job and new head gasket. Engine had around 9,000 hours when this was done nothing done on the lower end of the engine. It spun a rod bearing and broke all of the compression ring this is why I am doing the overhaul and having cam bearing put in as well.
 
The first B series did not have the washers and they found some times some of the rod bolts would bottom out before the cap was tight and then the rod bolt would break and punch the rod through the block. Make sure you use 1 piece pin bushings a 159-320As head gasket and what did you set your valve recession to? This information will not be in your manual. J.
 
I just did this to my 1655, if you remove the domed cover above your pto shaft you will find the clutch pack. engage your pto lever this will prevent the clutches from moving thus needing to be re-aligned before the shaft goes back in. there is a snap ring that is visible thru the slots in the cage the goes over the clutch pack. if the snap ring isn't in a position easily accessible just use a screwdriver to spin it. you will need a good set of snap ring pliers as it is a beefy snap ring. once you have it off the cage and shaft can be pulled out. it requires some elbow grease sometimes to remove it. remember to align the drive sprockets on the back of the 3 spd and the front of the tranny as close as you can when putting it back together, I used some aluminum cans for shims under the rear motor mounts. good luck.
 
(quoted from post at 12:47:24 04/28/16) The first B series did not have the washers and they found some times some of the rod bolts would bottom out before the cap was tight and then the rod bolt would break and punch the rod through the block. Make sure you use 1 piece pin bushings a 159-320As head gasket and what did you set your valve recession to? This information will not be in your manual. J.
Click to expand...
I already have the parts need the I ordered them from has been an oliver mechanic for over 40 years. not sure what you mean by valve recession?
 
Valve recession is the distance between the deck of the head and the intake valves. It needs to be measured and checked. You may need to replace the seats in the head to correct it for both intake and exhaust valves. Measure all 6 and see what dimensions you have and post them.
 
Valve seats was replaced when I done the overhead along with the valve guides. Less than 8 hours was put on it till it spun the rod bearing
 
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