married2allis

Married2allis,
I'm still here. 6 years ago I did an inframe rebuild on our 1655 diesel. After about 300 hours it's still running great with very little smoke and has 80 psi oil pressure at startup. It was my first solo engine rebuild and the guys on this forum guided me through the whole thing. I used plastigauge on the crank to measure the wear. I'll try to answer more questions if I can remember.
Cleon
 
(quoted from post at 21:01:15 04/20/16) Married2allis,
I'm still here. 6 years ago I did an inframe rebuild on our 1655 diesel. After about 300 hours it's still running great with very little smoke and has 80 psi oil pressure at startup. It was my first solo engine rebuild and the guys on this forum guided me through the whole thing. I used plastigauge on the crank to measure the wear. I'll try to answer more questions if I can remember.
Cleon
Thanks Cleon, that is GOOD oil pressure. Do you remember the steps for checking crank?
1) Do you use the plastiguage to measure the gap between the old bearings and the crank, then choose the bearing size?
2) Did you buy an overhaul kit and do the sleeves also?
3) Do the top halves of the mains simply slide out?
 
Married2Allis, Did yours start squeaking? That's what happened to our 2-70 when hauling a load of manure. Oil pressure was fine and pulling up a hill and started squeaking. Tried cleaning up the crank and installing new bearings and lasted less than 15 minutes. Had to have crank welded so we pulled the engine. I have a reground crank if you need one. Years ago we did an in frame in the 1555 that was new sleeves and pistons and had to have some work done on the head. I have pulled the engines with just a chain hoist but I was really not heavy enough. The last few times I have used the skid steer or bucket loader with a little help from my neighbor. If you end up pulling it I pull engine and hydropower together and don't forget to pull the PTO shaft out of tractor. We forgot and bent one once and had a wobble after that even though we had straightened it. When you have time climb under your tractor and try putting a socket on the oil pan bolts. Its not that much fun working upside down ,just my opinion. Greg
 
I'll second greg's comments. All depends on the condition of the crank. New bearings don't help if the journals are worn much. I was going to do a bottom end rebuild on my E4 till I pulled a main cap. The rods had -.002 bearings and the journals were in good shape but the crank was so bad it had to go to -.020 to clean up.
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Thanks for the tips guys. It's been so long since I did something like this I can't seem to remember anything. Yeah Greg, I would rather not to crawl around like a dog underneath the motor and bang my head! I'll remember the PTO shaft if I pull the motor -- would certainly rather do that to be able to change the crank seals and look at the clutch and hydrapower.

I appreciate the info on the crank. Mike, the crankshaft wear is what I'm worried about getting right. Looks like those mains are really worn and the crank worn down too. I assume when you get the crankshaft turned that you need oversize mains? Also, what would cause the journals to need align boring?
 
Undersize, not oversize. -.010" or -.020" Sometimes you can get -.002 bearings for when the crank is slightly worn but still in spec for roundness. That's what I found in the E4 rods. I don't know if align boring (or honing) is necessary but the guy who did my E4 told me even if the block is straight the caps get hammered out of round. Probably wouldn't hurt since the Waukeshas used a 4-bearing crank. Budas have seven mains.
 

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