1850 diesel engine issue

johnea4 · Mar 6, 2016

I have an 1850 I've had about a year and a half, and the balancer/water pump/alternator isn't turning with the engine. I tightened the center bolt on the balancer but it didn't help. I've been told it's not an uncommon problem. Is there a shear key that breaks off or something similar? Is it something that can be fixed without having to drop the crank? I have only run it in short spurts since I noticed the problem, moving hay and grain wagons and such. but need to get it fixed in time for planting! Not familiar with the Perkins, so any advice would be appreciated. thanks.

J. Schwiebert · Mar 7, 2016

The nose on the crankshaft is splined. You will need to remove the front pulley assembly and see if the sleeve that fits on the is worn out. Do you have a picture of what you are going to be looking for? Also that balancer is a liquid filled unit, be careful with it. More questions? J.

jmcarlic · Mar 7, 2016

I know I am hardly qualified to question J. Schwiebert, but I thought the Whites/Olivers were keyed and the MF were splined because they drove the hydraulic pump off the front?

Please correct me if I'm wrong, I'm a huge fan of the Perkins and would take any information on them I can get.

rrlund · Mar 7, 2016

The original out of mine is sitting out here,I just took a look. It's a fairly fine spline. Out of curiosity,did the bolt came all the way out at some point? There's a round,tapered wedge that goes in behind the big washer on that bolt. It slides right on the crank after the pulley goes on. It had a break in one side so that when you tighten it,that mashes between the crank and hub to hold it in tight. That's splined on the inside too. I have one of those hanging in the shop. If that's missing,that might be the problem.

J. Schwiebert · Mar 7, 2016

Lunnd just answered you for the 1850. There are probably close to 100 forging numbers for 354 Perkins crankshafts. this includes both splined and keyed cranks.

johnea4 · Mar 7, 2016

I haven't gotten into it yet. When i do i guess i'll be able to see if it's splined or keyed, and if the washer is there. The bolt didn't come all the way out (since i've owned it at least,) but was a little loose.

J. Schwiebert · Mar 7, 2016

If it is keyed someone changed the crankshaft

johnea4 · Mar 11, 2016

Thanks for all the advice. I will get into it this weekend i hope and let you know what i find.

Cas · Mar 13, 2016

Have had a couple of problems like that over the years. Both had splines and they did not look
very good. On one I replaced splined compression ring and washer to squeeze everything together. Still running after 20 years.
The other engine did the same thing and it ran about 15 minutes before the bolt on the crankshaft started to loosen. Engine had a lot of hours on it and did not want to spend much on it. Bought the compression ring and squeezed everything together. Center and alighned dampener usingg a dial indicater on a magnetic base. Welded everything together using 99% Nickel 1/8 inch rod. The nice thing about nickel 99% is that stretchs quite a bit on cooling.
I think you will find the parts you need very expensine. One other thing I found the ring with splines are NLA and have been replaced with a nonsplined ring.

johnea4 · Mar 16, 2016

So the problem you found was with the splines on the crank? Hope that's not the case here.... You think the parts will be expensive or inexpensive? Didn't get to it this weekend. Thanks for the advice.

1850 diesel engine issue

johnea4

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J. Schwiebert

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jmcarlic

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rrlund

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J. Schwiebert

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johnea4

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J. Schwiebert

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johnea4

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Cas

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johnea4

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