rrlund

Well-known Member
Just curious. Was a 1955 as prone to engine problems as an 1855,or were they better built right from the factory? Never heard anybody say they was as bad,just wondered.
 
Biggest difference was the 1955 had an oil cooler, the 1855 did not until about 1973 or 74. I think both tractors are good serviceable units when built and operated correctly.
 
Do they need to be overhauled with the twelve point rod bolts and what not to make a good engine out of them?
 
In my opinion yes. If they have the proper updates that 310 can be a really nice engine. Some guys modified oil pans to hold more oil even with oil coolers to aid in keeping oil cool. If I was going thru one I would do all of the updates along with the bigger pan and oil cooler.
 
So if a person was to buy a 1955 without knowing the history for sure,best thing to do might be to open it up? Even if you can see the 12 point rod bolts through the oil filler hole,no guarantee the one piece wrist pin bushings were put in unless,like I said,somebody could tell you absolutely for sure.

Just curious about them. No experience myself. There's an ad on local CL for a White 2-85,Oliver 1955 and an 1850 diesel,narrow front. I've contacted them about the White,been looking for a good one,but they said the cab is junk. Air doesn't work,I can see in the pictures there are at least three windows out. They said that had been going to take the cab right off,but never got around to it. The 1955 looks nice.
 
We just did an 1855 with the replacement short block. We had to up date the bolts & pin bushings> What do you want to use the tractor for?
 
There is a pretty nice cab setting at Worthingtons for a White. I don't believe it is for the Workhorse tractors, but then again, I didn't go right up to it and look it over either. I was kinda wondering the same thing about the 310 in the 1955's. I looked that ad over real well a couple times.

Ross
 
If this was my tractor , I would recondition the rods , have them balanced , get the 12 headed rod bolt , new pin bushing and yes you could go to the field with it all day long ,keep the pump at factory setting , dont lug the crap out of it and you will have a sweet running tractor
 
If I was to buy it,I'd use it for what I use the 1850 for. Running the discbine,planting,spraying,picking corn,running the grinder mixer. The 3 speed Over/Under would be a better fit with the discbine I think. I ran it some with the 2-135 last year and running fourth gear overdrive with that sure beat the tar out of running fourth direct with the Hydrapower in the 1850.
 
If they'd come down about $2500 on the White,it might be worth putting some money in to,but that's just too much for the shape it's in. No telling what you'd have in to the air just to get that going. Windows and a cab interior kit might take care of the rest of it,but I can see a big rust hole in the right fender. They did say they thought it really was a red stripe. That helps.
 
I would pull the pan, change the rod bolts, and check bearings while you're in there. As far as the pin bushings go, they are hard to see from the bottom if one is working out, but if you have the original oil filter, you can check every oil change for glitter, because it will be there if a bushing is eating away at a piston. I would just change them if you can afford. I like cummins, but I hate to see the 310 junked all the time. If there was ever an engine that M&W should have made a pan for, this was it!
 

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