2655 What to Look For

oliverkid

Member
So im looking for a bigger horse to help out my 1955 on the farm. She has been holding her own up until now but this fall we bought a 9 shank Glenco Soil Saver and while the ol 19 handles it alright on flat ground, she struggles quite a bit on the hills. A friend of mine ran across a 2655 sitting next to a barn about 15 minutes or so from home and since Ive always wanted one to begin with, I kinda want to go look at it and see if the guy wants to part with it. I believe the same tractor was on craigslist from the same guy about a year or so ago, so my guess is he will probably let it go unless somebody shot him an insanely lowball offer and just straight p!@@#$ him off to the point he wont sell to anyone, which is known to happen. Question is what should I be looking for? I know to check for the external oil pump on the 585, which if this is the same tractor that was on CL, it does have an external pump. Other than that and the pivot pins is there anything else major I should be on the lookout for?
 
No the one I found is down by Benton Harbor. Its in a lot better shape than that one and has a full set of axle duals.
 
You are not going to like my answer because it does not recommend an Oliver but I am being honest in my feelings. There were a couple A4T-1600's in the area here and nothing could keep those tractors going even when somebody stuck a Cat or Cummings in them. I don't think that the 310 in your 1955 is going to hold up being maxed out. A good 2-155 is going to be much higher than the 2655 in price. If you have to hang on to the 1955 and only have 5000 to spend on another tractor then you might just as well take one shank off of the soil saver to preserve the 1955. If the 1955 can be traded and you have 5000 dollars for boot then maybe you can find a 2-155 but be picky. Do not jump on just any 2-155 but find one where you can know the history on it. If getting another tractor is imperative but you have to keep the 1955 I would find a........ I can't even think of a 130 plus HP tractor that will typically sell for 5000 dollars in good shape. Every once in a while you might find an IH 1066 that is ugly but mechanically good for that kind of money. Buy the 2655 only if it is going to be a collector tractor.
 
There was a 2655 over west of me about 10 miles. He bought it with a bad piston. He got a piston out of salvage and put that in it. As far as I know,about all he did with that one was pull a chisel plow. I never heard of him having any other trouble with it,even with a Murphy overhaul.
 
With the price of corn and beans I think I would pass on it and rent a tractor. Guys around here that farm say less than 4-500 acres rent one from a neighbor. Also make a list of what should be repaired on the 2655 and then go price those parts. Is this an early 585 or a later improved 585 and I don't just mean the external oil pump.
 
If it was my tractor I would go thru the 1955 engine and make sure it has one piece piston pin bushings, 12 point rod bolts, then I would overhaul the rest of engine and get it up to 150hp. I'm sure I will get backlash for this, since many think a 310 is only good for 100hp or it will blow, but myself and two other friends have 1950Ts and 55s running that high with no problems. The key is using the right overhaul parts, frequent oil changes(every 100 hrs or less) and knowing your tractor, for example dont lug it or it will get hot real quick. IF you really want to go to a fwa or articulated 4x4, I would look for a good white 135/155 or even better a 100 or workhorse series with a cummins.
 
You might find a Case 2470 for 5000 dollars at auction. A person use to be able to find Ford 9000's and such for 5000 dollars but just like the Case they are not laying around like they were years ago. Anyways good luck in whatever you do.
 
We already have 8 grand wrapped up in that 1955 motor cranking 125 horse and I really don't want to push it any harder than that. A FWA White is way out of the budget and I don't really want another big 2WD tractor.
 
I don't know which one it is. That's why im asking so I know what to look for when I go look at the tractor. As for renting one, I don't want to have to wait for somebody else to get done with their stuff in order to have a tractor freed up for me to use. I have no problem with a project because when its all said and done I know what I have.
 
The one rrland found the CL ad for isn't the one I found. The one im looking at has good paint and a full set of axle duals. Aside from that Glenco, my Mathews Stalk chopper, and my Brillion culamulcher, everything I farm with from the planter to combine is an Oliver so the chances of another color showing up around here any time soon are slim to none. Brand loyalty can still be a thing even if they haven't made a piece of equipment in 40 years. I either want a 4 wheel drive or a FWA and I can pick up a 2655 all day long for way less money than a FWA White. We have over 10 grand wrapped up in that 1955 so its here to stay to. Im not scared of a project cause in the end you know what you have.
 
I have a hard time recommending a 2655/ A4T-1600 to anybody. If you go get it a dealer that used to be MM recommended running them at 1700-1750 engine RPM's. I don't get excited over 2255's either although one with a 3306 Cat might change my mind. Just what is your budget as I am guessing at this point?
 
If its in the same condition as your 1800's paint, fires up easily, runs good, I'd say no more than 5000$ But with the work you can do,I'd go for it.

StrongsOlivers aka
Ag Tv on YouTube
 
How many acres are you going to use this tractor on? Here you only chisel after wheat is off so time is not a major factor. Do you no-till? See once where the oil filters are mounted on the engine. Are they mounted on the oil filter base? There were all kind of bulletins on those tractors. Like I said look it over and the price the parts that you would need to get it serviceable.
 
Unless your looking at it as collector as well as to farm with. I'd look for a 4-210 white. You should be able to buy a decent one for under 10k. I paid 8K for a real nice one a few years back. I liked it so well I bought another. Very low cost to own, operate and maintain.
 
I fall chisel everything. In our ground if you straight no-till it will get hard as a rock after about 3 years, ive got fields to prove it. For now it will be used on around 100 acres. Im looking at it as both a collector tractor and a user. Im not the kind of guy that can stand buying a tractor just to look at it, I want to be able to take them out to stretch their legs to.
 
Right now my budget is 0. I wont be doing any serious looking until next fall but I still want to go look at this one and see if the guy even wants to get rid of it.
 
No, if I do get it, it wont be till this fall. I just want to go look at it right now and see if the guy will even get rid of the thing.
 

You know I've never owned one but for a 9 shank soil saver it will be plenty big for that so u ain't gona over work it. Like j schwiebert said I've heard second gear is weak because every body plowed in that gear. But if it's been used in several of the gear it should be fine! Heck id just buy the thing that would just be cool to have!
 
There arent any to be had within a reasonable distance. The ones that are floating around here are still at work, or are donor tractors to keep the others going.
 

I grew up running A4t's and like others said, for farming there are more reliable tractors for the same or less money. We didn't over work ours but replaced a few front axle bearings and one front axle, broken 2nd and 4th gear, if I remember right they are one gear with two sizes of gears on each end. Spun rod bearing chewing up a crankshaft. Replaced a few injection pumps. They did not have a trans cooler, so on hot days the transmission can get very hot. Versatile 800 or 850 series one are about as cheap of tractor as you can find and they just seem to run forever. I grew up on G1000 and A4t molines but those versatiles just can't be beat for tillage and simplicity. If you are still sold on getting an A4t, let it run and warm up and see if the oil pressure falls off when warmed up. Check for hard steering, the steering pumps are on the front frame of the engine and are expensive. Some had a closed center hydraulic pump and some had open. The open center pump is a small gear pump under the fuel injection pump and the closed center is a large piston pump under the injection pump. Look at the front axles and make sure they are not leaking, if they are it will probably need new bearings, putting just seals in won't solve the problem. Check the condition of the clutch by putting it in high gear and taking off, make sure it doesn't slip and the throw out bearing is not growling. The engine is a big heavy pig and if you have to work on the clutch it takes a good sized loader to lift it up and out of there. If it has the external oil pump added it should have an electric tach installed. Originally they had a gear driven tach off of the oil pump. Check the transfer case and make sure it is not leaking oil by the lower shafts and there is a screw in fill plug dipstick, make sure it is full of 80-90 or heavier oil. I have never seen one with functional brakes, but if I remember right the reservoir is inside the cab above the brake pedal, but I may be wrong on that it has been a while. Good luck with whatever you decide.
 
It all depends on how much time do you have available to complete your fall chisel plowing. Your 1955 could probably get the 100 acres done in less than 3 days while the 2655 would get it done in less than 2 days. You probably need some speed to get the proper shattering to loosen your soil. For now, I would cut down the width of your soil saver to so your 1955 can pull it at the right speed in all conditions and enjoy the extra seat time on the 1955.
 
I love the line in the ad "ran when parked". If it was me I'd be finding something more practical than this boat anchor. I'd develop some color blindness also. Good luck.
 

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