oliver 1550 Gas Stuck in Reverse!

Delsfarmllc

New User
I have just recently acquired a 1965 Oliver 1550 gas tractor. I got it home, charge the battery, and it fired right up. You can grab the shift lever and put it in any gear that you want. So I push in the clutch, fired it up, let go of the clutch and it went in reverse. While it was running I pushed in the clutch, grab the shifter and put it in what I thought was neutral, and it still went in Reverse. While the tractor is running, I can either put it in neutral or reverse but in either position it still goes in reverse. But when the tractor is off I can put it in any gear that I want and you can feel it pushing itself into gear. So my first thought was shifting forks. So I pulled the shifter and shifter housing off so you can look down on the shifting forks, my only problem is I don't know what I'm looking for any help is appreciated. Thanks and God bless
 


The shift rail slots should line up, if not, pry them with a screw driver or something to line them back up. Then make sure your shifter drops in there.
 
This ain't good. Mine did that about three or four years ago. It wasn't a fork,it was a rod that holds one of the forks. I stuck a bar down through the shift hole and got it in neutral. I shifted it and got it to go forward,but as soon as I put it in reverse,it stuck there again.
Big problem is,they used two different rods. NLA from Agco. Mine's a later one,so it was the same rod as a 1555. There's a number stamped on the rod when you get it out so you can see it. If you're extremely lucky,yours will be the early one. I found one parted out 1555 in the country and got the rod out of that one.
If you're real good at welding or know somebody who is,you might be able to have it fixed. Mine broke right where the one flat spot begins. Maybe a good machine shop could make one if necessary,but it doesn't look like a simple build to me.
 
My 1850 broke a shifting rail while I was putting on anhydrous, so I called a weldersnd he came out and welded it the rain. That has been over 25 years ago and it is still working fine.After he welded it out of line. he took a bar and moved it a little because heat pulled
 
So i dug into it a little more and found
that the shift rod is broke. In order to
change that, do i have to pull that
whole top cover off or do can i do it
from the shifter housing access?
 
On a 1550,you'll have to take the whole top off unless somebody knows a way that I don't. I believe the bell housing will be in the way too. You have to put the new one in from the front. I can't remember what it is that's in the way of putting it in from the back. Either a bull gear or part of the casting.
 
Ok i figured. Would u happen to know if i take it off on one piece or not and if i do if there is any kind of springs or gears that are gonna fall out of alignment when i do it? Sorry for all the questions wish i had a manual
 
The whole unit lifts off in one piece. It's heavy. There are two long bolts on either side of the hydraulic filter that most people miss. It can be a bear to break it loose. There's an oil pan under it. It has a gasket above and below the pan and they both stick. On top of that,there's a guide pin near the front on one side and near the rear on the other side. On one,it's larger on top than the hole in the pan is and won't let the pan come up. The other one is opposite,the pin stays down in the lower casting and the pan wants to lift off of it.
There's nothing that'll fall out. Don in Wisconsin had something happen when he put his 1600 back together that probably would never happen again,but there are two gears that have to mesh together when you put the top back on. He had the gears just right so the teeth sat one right on top of the other and he bolted it down.
You DON"T have to pull the PTO shaft out by the way.
 
You remember that eh? Kinda odd how they lined up like that. But then again, stuff happens.

Donovan from Wisconsin
 
So i got the rod out and on the end of
it there is a flat spot and there is a bolted plate on it, it was just a piece of flat stock. what is it
for and does it need it on?
 
I don't remember anymore if that has something to do with the neutral safety switch or if it's an oil deflector or what.
 

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