1850 oliver brake seal

Todd D

Member
Do i need to remove the whole brake housing from the frame to change the seal.
And anyone know the agco seal part #. Please and thank u. Todd
 
The answer to the first question NO. You can not remove the housings with out removing the bull gears!. I can look up the number tonight if no one else answers.
 
Agco #is 155627A. When you get it out it will have a C/R# still on it I think. I am doing a complete overhaul-nut and bolt restoration on my 2150 and every seal I have come across has had a C/R# on it.
 

NOOOOO!!!!!! do not remove the brake housing because there is a roller bearing that will fall apart if u do. Just drill holes in the seal then run a screw in it to pull it out
 
I've never been into an 1850 brake housing, so I can't give advice about R&R'ing the seal, but the guys responding to your question quote C/R in their answer. They are referring to a Chicago Rawhide brand of seal. The C/R number stamped into the outer seal band can cross over into several other name brand seals, if you can't find a C/R seller. Good Luck! Ron
 
I've tried drilling holes in them to put a screw in. All I managed to do was break bits. It's such an angle to it in there with the pinion shaft in the way,the bit just wants to slip. I've just used a good sharp punch and knocked a hole in them.
That seal isn't a cup type that open behind the first piece of steel. It's an enclosed square tube type,so even trying to distort them is a chore.
 
One suggestion that I learned from others on this site, when you are ready to install the new seal, find a plastic bottle that fits nicely over the splined shaft. This will protect the new seal when you install it, we did three seals on the same tractor brake, and they all leaked, after using the bottle the seal has held for over a year.

Rich
 
No you don't have to remove the entire housing. I did mine on my white fairly easy by just using the sheet metal screw idea for pulling them out. New seals are available at the White dealer but I would look for brake pads from A&I if you can. They only cost about $15 bucks a piece through the aftermarket. Agco wanted close to $50 bucks a disk and I needed six of them. That hurt.
a212909.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 03:00:02 01/29/16) No you don't have to remove the entire housing. I did mine on my white fairly easy by just using the sheet metal screw idea for pulling them out. New seals are available at the White dealer but I would look for brake pads from A&I if you can. They only cost about $15 bucks a piece through the aftermarket. Agco wanted close to $50 bucks a disk and I needed six of them. That hurt.
a212909.jpg

Thank you for the picture. I wish the repair manual creators would use a few more like you have it would make understanding the process so much easier. I will be doing the same repair on a 2-105 white. How many disks are on each side?
 
I think there were 3 on each side alternated with the plates. Seems like I bought 6 of them. Mine were wasted and boy was that a dirty mess in there! In the pic I only see 5 of them but I may have cleaned one to take to the dealer for reference.
a212956.jpg
 

For anyone searching.. I just went thru this. Spent way too much time trying to figure this out.. So hopefully this will help someone.

Napa is NOS-20687
AdvanceAuto is national/Timken 417344
Mahle 47095 (or 47095s)
SKF 28705

Seal is is 2.875" ID x 3.751" OD x 0.375" thick.
I noticed some very tiny variations in the dimensions but all cross reference and will work.. The original seals were like 0.425" thick.. But the replacements are slightly more narrow.. But this will help because the seal will ride along a different part of the shaft incase there is wear or a groove.


Also.. When removing dust plate and seal.. Use a small slide hammer.. Drill small hole and use a lag bolt (I'd say ~3/16" DIA. But drill using 1/8" bit)

When you drill.. Center punch the spot. I recommend staying somewhere near the center of the seal (OD to ID).. Hand screw the lag/wood screw and use the slide hammer. May have to heat the old one depending how tight it's in there. You may tear the metal some on the old seal.. Just move over to another spot and try again.
 
Also!

The seals go in where the open side of the Seal faces the pinion/transmission (faces the bull gears).. So when it's installed.. All you will see is the metal backing of the seal.
 
(quoted from post at 19:39:58 11/04/20)
That's an old 28687. The 28686 would've retained the original thickness

It appears the 28687 has now changed, which may be due to the SKF/Chicago Rawhide combination. http://www.skfextranet.com/Catalogs/457010/sealdetail.asp?s=28687

Ahh I see.

Well that definitely confirms that these have been replaced before. When I went to install new ones.. I noticed they appeared to be installed backwards from what I'm typically used to for oil seals.

I wanted to make progress so I just installed the same way these came out.. Which is backwards!. Ugh.. Hopefully new seals get here today so that I can remove them and put the new ones in.

I knew I should've followed my own judgement on this
 


Ah no worries. I've ordered some by size and had the wrong seal construction and they've still worked.

I usually have a few extra seals onhand because I'm good for hamfisting a seal every now and then- that's my problem.
 

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