OK guys, I need help. Sort of long.

Mike(NEOhio)

Well-known Member
Location
Newbury, Ohio
OK, here goes. I really thought I had the 1550 ready to go. In the last three weeks I got the new claws on the lower arms, brakes fixed and straightened out the wiring so the alternator PO put on will actually charge. The fuel gauge, and amp and oil lights work. We didn't get much snow but there's a lot of drifting so I put the 7' blower on today.

Hydraulic lift is intermittent. It seemed to work most of the time but needed some throttle to drop or lift. Never tried it with a load until now. It tilted the blower with only the lower arms on but with the top link on it took full throttle to get any lift. It was slow and didn't go to the top. Left it up while I plowed and didn't seem to drop any. Going to check it again tomorrow. Fluid is low but on the stick. Free play is set to 3/4. I'm thinking if it doesn't drop it's not the cylinder seal. I checked the hydraulic filter a while back. It had a closed end element (NAPA) but no spring or retainer so I put spring in. I know pressure test is in order but the remotes are plugged and the head is broke off the test plug, so I'll have to do some plumbing. Is there anything else I should check? Also steers hard at low throttle so maybe it is the pump.

It starts good and runs smooth with no smoke. It seems to not want to take throttle after it warms up. Then after it runs a while it will start cutting out when I give it throttle. Likely fuel flow. It has a plastic in-line filter that's going to be replaced. Has a Mallory distributor. Where should the timing be set? No vacuum advance like the Holley.

I'd appreciate any suggestions. Been screwing with this thing for two years and got no use out of it yet. Every time I think it's ready something else pops up.
 
Take that plastic inline filter out and splice the line back together first thing.
If the o-ring was bad on the lift cylinder,it would probably raise then bounce as it leaked down and raised again.
 
I had a problem like that on a 1650. Lift arms wouldn't raise or lower unless it was at 1/2 or 3/4 throttle....same when operating a remote cylinder. Steering was also hard unless throttled up. I always figured it was the pump....and kept putting off replacing it. Don't remember whether I read about it...or someone told me...but.....there is a valve in the hydraulic housing that someone had put in backwards. On the right front outside corner is a plug, behind that is a valve...look in your book, pull it out and see if it has been installed wrong. I bought this 1650 and ran it for 3 years before I stumbled on this.....really glad I didn't dump a bunch of money for a new pump. This may not be the culprit on yours...but...it's worth checking out.
 
check hyd out put 1800C did that. It was time to replace the pump then adjust the 3 point linkage.
 
Doesn't that Mallory have some kind of mechanical advance? Mine's a Mallory,but I've never fooled with the timing much. All I've ever done was turn it until it sounds good. Precision guesswork.
 
The blower didn't drop more than 1/4 inch overnight. Better than I expected. The relief valve looked OK but I'm not sure the seat is in properly. Eight shims on the valve, the spring is 2 5/8" long. Don't know what it should be. I put a 3000# gauge into the raise port of the LH remote. It would only push 200-300 PSI at full throttle. I put added 1/8 thick washer behind the relief spring and it didn't seem to make any difference. The 3/8 plug to the left of the filter is broke off. There is a 1/2 plug right next to it. Can I use it for a pressure test? I want to check the pressure when the hitch lifts. I don't think that little bit could lift the blower at all. Anything else to check before going after the pump? Can the pump be inspected and changed through the top without taking the whole housing off? Didn't get to the fuel filter.
 
Can the pump be inspected and changed through the top without taking the whole housing off?

No,the whole top of the rear end has to be lifted off. The one time that I had a serious problem with loss of pressure and needed to have the RPMs high to make things barely work,it was on the 1850 and the pump was cracked.
 
Mike,something else occurred to me with it wanting to stall out or loose power. I changed mine to Pertronix electronic ignition several years ago. Before I did that,I was constantly having to open the points up farther and farther. It would act just like it was starving for gas. Open the points and it would run right again for a while.
 
(quoted from post at 16:32:48 01/23/16) Mike,something else occurred to me with it wanting to stall out or loose power. I changed mine to Pertronix electronic ignition several years ago. Before I did that,I was constantly having to open the points up farther and farther. It would act just like it was starving for gas. Open the points and it would run right again for a while.

Was this because the rub block was wearing down on the points really fast like happens on many of the cheap modern points. By opening the points back up again you were simply returning them to the proper point gap by compensaiting for the rub block wear.

Or are you saying that you had to keep opening the points wider beyond stock gap spec to get it to run right. In thise case, I would think excessive slop or advance issues.
 
It was wearing them out just like you said. The result was that it acted just like it was starving for gas. What seems like lack of fuel,isn't always the case. The electronic ignition took care of the problem though.
 
The saga continues. I checked the relief valve as rwalton suggested. It was OK and I added a second 1/8 washer to the spring. Didn't change. I wanted to see what the system pressure did when the 3-point was lifting the blower. I could not get the test plug out so I left the gauge in the remote. The bleed screw was opened as if for a single acting cylinder. I actuated the remote while the hitch was lifting. It got up to 500psi but would not drop past 250. I'm smart enough to not unscrew the gauge with that pressure on so I left it loose to drip out.

Because I got more pressure this time I'm wondering if there is some valve sticking somewhere. Does anybody have a diagram available of the hydraulic system? I'm grasping at straws here hoping not to have to replace the pump. I tried taking the top valve unit off once but it would not budge. I'm pretty sure I got all the bolts out. Is the gasket holding it so tight? I would like to open up the top to have a look-see.

I hope this is making sense and I thank you all for the ideas and patience.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top