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Rossa Master leak on Oliver 1550

R

rocko

Member
Been chasing an air leak in the fuel lines and filters for a couple days, seem every time I thought I had it, it still
would not start come morning. Could still get her running by bleeding injectors for bit and then she'd run for the
short time I needed her or maybe catch air while running longer or when I was working to find leak. Well this morning
no chance of her firing bleed the injectors or not. That's when I noticed a leak around the throttle control lever on
the injector pump, wasn't there before I don't think. First question could a leak there cause the problem of engine not
starting? Second if the problem is deeper than that inside the pump should I attempt the repair myself or take it to a
shop. I'm kinda thinking it is the pump now and sorta figured so before but was hoping it wasn't.
 
How has the governor been acting lately when it's running, any surging or unstable speed control? If so the retainer ring is probably failing, and if run too long the pins shear off wrecking the hydraulic head and breaking the drive shaft. Try removing the pump side timing cover, after fuel stops coming out crank the engine and see if the front timing plate is turning, if not shaft is broken. If it turns try to start with the cover off, if you get fuel to the injectors then means the return side is plugged from the ring bits, meaning the pump needs repair. Just got a JD 219 pump done that had a broken shaft and head seized, too much water/rust in fuel, and the ring broken..
 
Yes it was surging and RPM's changing without throttle movement, that why I started chasing an air leak. I took the timing plate off and it is turning there when cranked, Tried starting no start bit more fuel pouring out, no pressure to speak of at injector line I had nearly completely loosened off. Taking it's bad news. So could I possibly attempt this repair myself, I haven't approached a shop as yet as it Sunday, I did print out the Roosa Master repair manual from the Standyne site but haven't read through it as yet. 54 pages and a bit of learning by the look of it.
 
This might be nothing but its easy to check, On the intake side of the engine on the first fuel filter the fitting on the line going to the finial filter there is a rubber fitting inside that gets hard over time and will cause it to suck air if it's bad. It's a rubber compression fitting and it's cheep to buy a new one or change to a hose barb fitting and a piece of hose and a clamp, Easy fix. Bandit
 
Make sure the lift pump on the other side of the engine is working properly. My late super 55 with a roosa pump wouldn't start one time this summer and bleeding the lines didn't start it. I finally pulled it to get it running. The lift pump had a faulty check valve that worked only some of the time. I got that working but put a new lift pump on anyway. It starts better now than any time since I have this engine, about 3 years. I just put it inside the shop after sitting out all day and it turned a few times and then started. (about 43 degrees and no glow plug)
 
Do 1550's even have a transfer pump? Noticed same thing with a 1650 that I got last year without a fuel pump. Ran fine without one, but when it came time to bleed the lines it wouldn't start until I installed a new pump. Maybe just needing a fuel (lift) pump is a sign that the injector pump output pressure is weak.
 
The 1550's have no lift pump it's gravity feed only. That's why running one low on fuel will make them run funny and they have to have good clean filters. A bad hose from the finial filter to the injector pump or bad rubber in the compression fitting on the out side of the first filter or even a dirty fitting on the return line on top of the injector pump all can make a 1550 run real funny. They can be fickly tractors for sure but they are good ones. Bandit
 
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