Oliver 60 Voltage regulator wiring

I have an Oliver 60. The generator has a voltage regulator. I have the field wired to field on the generator. I need to know how it's connected to the ammeter as the ammeter doesn't seem to be working. I have polarized the generator and the output at the battery does seem to increase. I read of a negative and positive side of the ammeter, or a load side. Which is which? Any help is appreciated. I am very good with a meter.

The load is connected to a light switch. The armerature is connected from gen to regulator. The battery connection runs to the ammeter. I'm unsure of the wiring on the ammeter. I know have a wire that runs from it to the battery side of the starter switch. A wire from the ammeter to the coil switch.

I failed to mention that it is the positive ground 6v system that someone put an 8v battery on. I know right now that the generator is only putting out enough to charge a 6v battery. It seems the 8v battery is a little unneeded if it isn't being charged to its fullest extent.

I'm a little confused on your comments. If your 'regulator' has two terminals then it is a cutout.

If it is a cutout the armature goes through the cutout and the field goes to the light switch.

If it is a regular there should be at least 3 terminals.

I will give more detail if you respond with more detail.

RT

Sorry. It is a regulator. It has an L connection, a batt connection, and a field connection.

On what I have seen if it has an L connection it should have an A connection. It tends to be underneath the unit or I think some were on the opposite side of the three terminals.

With an L terminal type then the armature should hook to the A or Gen terminal. Field goes to F. B goes to the battery through the ammeter and L will feed the ignition switch and lights.

The original light switch had a resistor to drop the output from the generator. When the lights were turned on the resistor was cut out of the circuit and the generator was full fielded. It has no purpose with a regulator.

RT

Thanks a lot. The connection on the bottom of the regulator is connected to the armerature. The F connection is connected to the field post on the generator. So, the batt is its own circuit? From batt on regulator to negative on ammeter, from positive on ammeter to battery side of starter switch? Right now the L on the regulator feeds the lights independently, and the coil switch is jumpered to the ammeter. How does the regulator work? Is it adjustable?

Yes and no on the adjustment, they are if you have the tools test equipment and experience, I've played around trying to adjust them with less than 50% success. If you want to try Google Delco-Remy Bulletin 1R-116 and download the PDF on the regulators
GB in MN

You are going to need to adjust the third brush + probably replace your light switch for a regular light switch as you now grounding the field circuit at the regulator.

Just disconnect wire from light/field switch to Field on generator. Lights and field should be separate switches with a common control

The others have made good suggestions.

In my opinion there is nothing wrong with how your lights and coil are wired. The fleetline Olivers ran the L terminal to the multipurpose ignition and light switch on the dash. The L terminal helps the regulator sense the load and adjust to it I think.

If the regular is the type I think it is then inside there is a cutout to keep the generator from running the battery down when you shut it off. The one has heavier contacts and will be open with nothing running or at idle.

The smaller one will be closed and is the voltage regulator. When the voltage rises too high those contacts open. The voltage drops and the contacts close. This is faster than you can see and I think is a form of mechanical pulse width modulation. The spring opposite it sets the voltage.

I never did try to set one because I think it is a little tricky. But if you tweak the spring a bit tighter it should raise the voltage. When I was kid we had a 77 with an 8 volt battery. We never did mess with the regulator and it worked pretty good from what I remember. I can't guarantee yours would do that.

If you have two small coils inside I would have to review to remember what the 3rd one did.

RT

Thanks for all of the replys. You've all been helpful. I was just curious if the coil switch should be fed from the load connection on the regulator or off from the ammeter. I'm good with electrical. I just don't know what should be on its own circuits. I understand that with having a regulator there isn't a point in having the original light switch. As of now there is a toggle switch for the lights that runs from the load connection on the regulator.

The light switch and ignition switch can both be connected to the "L" terminal as was the practice on the 66 through 88 and Supers. The "L" terminal provides unregulated voltage directly from the generator "A" post to the "Loads",in order to somewhat compensate for the low output of the type of generator that was used. Any load that will exceed the generator output, must be connected to the battery or ammeter.
Agri Services

Thanks a lot. It is up and running well. While running and measuring voltage from ground on battery to batt on the regulator, and ground to load on the regulator, the voltage drops down to about 3.8 volts. At what voltage should the generator start charging, and what voltage should it cut off?