How important is this shim?

rrlund · Jun 26, 2015

That number 12 shim. I didn't see it until I had already cut it in half with the torch. It goes between the number 11 spacer and number 13 bearing. Number 10 and 13 are both just tapered wheel bearings shown with the outside race. I don't know how you'd ever know what the right thickness was with new bearings unless you used something like Plasti-gauge to measure it. The one I cut in half measured 3.0mm. You'd think with that in there is would cause slop eventually when those bearings wore in a little?
I went ahead and put it together and tightened it up until is rolled OK with no shuck at all in the wheel or hub. I'm wondering if I should call and order one or just leave it like it is?
There's nothing to stop a wheel bearing in a normal hub,like a two wheel drive or wagon or something is there? You just tighten it up and put the cotter pin in the castle nut.
These bearings roll in 90wt oil in the planetary.

Mitch Poindexter · Jun 26, 2015

Randy, I won't be much help on "how" important that shim is, but I'll give you my opinion. The different shim sizes there are used to make sure the spindle nut doesn't push the inner race too far in when you tighten the nut. I got lucky there and all my parts came out ok and went back together the same, but if it were me and it tightened up ok and didn't bind the hub, I'd leave well enough alone. Like you say, this isn't a 3600 rpm application, it's a wheel bearing on something you're going to pay attention to.

rrlund · Jun 26, 2015

Ya,I'm tempted to get a 3.0 and drain the whole thing and put it in,but I'm afraid if I go through all that I'll have some shuck in it when I'm done. I just went and moved 103 bales off to the side of the field with it and there weren't any casualties. I felt and front and back of the hub when I got home. It's as cool as it can be. I'm afraid of what happens when I don't leave well enough alone.

oliver90owner · Jun 26, 2015

With that selection of shims in those increments I would expect it is fairly damned certain that the correct shimm needs to be fitted for good service life.

You have tightened to zero end float, but your spacer may well be floating. Not good. You need to ascertain the correct shim size needed for your particular bearing/spacer arrangement (as per the rebuild instructions, I suspect). They didn't go to those lengths for no good reason! I would expect one bearing will be taking too large a share of the loading and fail prematurely.

RAB

rrlund · Jun 26, 2015

There was only the one shim in there. Those bearings are huge. One is six inches across,the other is five and a half.
I had the same conclusion as you,that they were there for a reason,but like I said,with new bearings and races,how would a person determine the right shim? I know about Plasti-gauge for engine bearings,but is there something similar for this? I can't see through the hub to get a measurement on it.

oliver90owner · Jun 26, 2015

''How would a person determine the right shim?''

There lies the rub! You fit the different shims until the too large one does not provide any drag on the bearing, then fit the next smaller. I dare to suggest that the worshop manual is clear on this point.

Those two bearings are not cheap (unlees you buy sub-quality chinese replacements). The correct shim selection then becomes a much cheaper option compared to early bearing failure. Shim material is cheap.

RAB

OliverNate · Jun 26, 2015

My guess would be its a preload cone. You'd probly have to start out by putting in largest shim, torque the nut to a certain torque, then set up a dial indicator and see how much pre-load/endplay/shuck you have. I would figure theres maybe a range of .000-.003 (that's what 4x4 pickups were, I think) and you'd have to change out the shim to get in that range.

rrlund · Jun 26, 2015

No,they're not cheap. One was $100,the other $141.

Mike(NEOhio) · Jun 26, 2015

Randy, was that "shim" more like a C-shaped ring with flat sides? It could be the bearings come as a matched set. I just ran into that on my 1207 roll drive shafts. A pair of tapered roller bearings with an internal snap ring between the cups and a spacer ring between the cones to control the preload with 120 lb-ft on the bolt. If not that I would bet it's a preload spacer where you torque the nut then check the rolling torque. You would need the specs.

rrlund · Jun 27, 2015

No,it's a shim. Like a washer that's only as big around as that spacer. In fact,it was exactly the size of the inner race of the bearing,that's why I didn't see it until the heat from the torch warped it enough to separate it from the bearing. Unfortunately,by that time I had cut it on both sides.

How important is this shim?

rrlund

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Mitch Poindexter

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oliver90owner

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