Need part # for 1550 Oliver brake seals

johnnyo · May 21, 2015

Does any body have the part # for the seals at brakes. I pulled out what I thought is the seal, but it's only a case with nothing inside, no seal no packing, no nothing. And no seal in there. The seals I ordered have this number SKF 28687.

I went & had another look. Looks like what I pulled out are only dust caps. I think I can see the seal deep inside. Should I get a long screw & remove the seals this way, or I see 3 bolts holding the brake drum onto the body. Should I take the inner drum off,( the part that holds the discs & the actuator) then change the seals?

greg oliver · May 21, 2015

John, I googled AGCO parts book and have some numbers. The cup is 159366A or alternate is 162006A. The seal is 1160367A or Alternate is 107621A. You can go to AGCO parts book and be a guest user I put 1550 under White and came up Oliver. Someone will straighten me out if I have the wrong numbers. LOL Greg

Mike(NEOhio) · May 21, 2015

The cup is 159366-A. Seal is 160367-A. Right out of my parts book. Does the shaft just pull out? I have to look at mine because the brakes barely work, but there are other things to do first. I took one cover off, there was lining on the disks but it was full of black crud. Didn't smell like gear oil so I'm hoping it's just cleaning and adjustment.

johnnyo · May 21, 2015

Mike I don't know if it pulls out, but I doubt it.. I don't have brakes in my manual.. That's why I'm lost with them.. Still not sure how to pull them seals, other than just mangle them. hate to do that, & looks like I might have to drain some oil. The hole I made with the screw, got some oil coming out.

greg oliver · May 21, 2015

John, here's out of my book.

johnnyo · May 21, 2015

Greg thanks so much. I see they show a shim 14 between Housing 6 & Cover 1. Neither side of mine had a shim..
I wonder how hard it would be to remove housing 9, & then replace the seal? or do they recommend to do that.? but then there's 0 ring 8 & shim 9 to contend with.
thanks again for your great help.. just a bit hard for this 81 yr old body to crawl in & out.. lol
John

Bison2010 · May 21, 2015

Those shims are there to adjust the end play in the bearing.do you have a dial gauge..?

johnnyo · May 21, 2015

No I don't have a gauge.

greg oliver · May 22, 2015

John, are you talking about shims #14? All I found in my book was renew oil seal in brake housing with lip to inside. Install new O ring on shoulder of brake housing. lubricate seal and reinstall brake housing with same number of shims as were removed. Those are number 9. On the 1600 I helped with they heated the seal a little to get it out. Back in 1990 my White was still on warranty and the mechanic showed up to change those seals. They didn't leak then but have since and is another thing that ends up on the back burner. I remember helping pull the tire to get to the brake housing easier. At 81 your 30 years older than me and you have way more ambition than the 40 year old guy I work with. He moans when he shows up to the job and I have to fight the urge to give him my shovel for a hat! LOL Greg

johnnyo · May 22, 2015

(quoted from post at 02:30:46 05/22/15) John, are you talking about shims #14? All I found in my book was renew oil seal in brake housing with lip to inside. Install new O ring on shoulder of brake housing. lubricate seal and reinstall brake housing with same number of shims as were removed. Those are number 9. On the 1600 I helped with they heated the seal a little to get it out. Back in 1990 my White was still on warranty and the mechanic showed up to change those seals. They didn't leak then but have since and is another thing that ends up on the back burner. I remember helping pull the tire to get to the brake housing easier. At 81 your 30 years older than me and you have way more ambition than the 40 year old guy I work with. He moans when he shows up to the job and I have to fight the urge to give him my shovel for a hat! LOL Greg

Yes Greg, there are no #14 shims on mine on either side. So it sounds like I should take off brake housing #6 to change the seal, correct? Hopefully Napa will have the 0 rings unless I'll be able to reuse them.. I took the 3 bolts out that hold the housing, but the housing seemed to still be tight to the tractor. Maybe needed some tapping to break it loose.

greg oliver · May 22, 2015

John, The number 9 shims must be put back the way they came off so keep bolts in the holes! That's were Bison said you need dial indicator. I was hoping someone who has done a successful seal change would tell us how to do it. Not all tractors need number 14 shims, book said tractors after serial 216 426-000 have shim adjusted brakes. Just passing on what little I know and sometimes feel I forgot more than I know. LOL Greg

johnnyo · May 22, 2015

Thanks Greg.. Yup I can sure relate to that. I Printed out the page you sent me. Is it hard to send the page or pages of the procedure of changing seals etc. You can send them to my email address if you prefer. That'll give me step by step, & I won't have to keep bugging on the forum here.. Don't know why my manual omitted the section on brakes..
We just got infested in our area with the American Dog Tick.. I didn't think I look or smell like a dog, but they sure like me, have to spray the ground real good when I crawl under the tractor.

[email protected]

Mike(NEOhio) · May 22, 2015

John, I think you're a little confused. The #14 shims are for adjusting the brakes but the 1550 didn't use them. 1550s had the nut with the ball end and a locknut to adjust. I would say DON'T pull the brake housing! Leave it be unless you have a fluid leak from behind it. The #9 shims are for adjusting the differential bearings and bevel gears. That's quite a project and you'll start by draining 10 gallons of smelly gear oil.

Mike(NEOhio) · May 22, 2015

When you take the seals out be careful not to nick the shaft where the seal rides.

johnnyo · May 22, 2015

Mike that's not little confused, I'm big time confused.. Just try as I may, that seal will not budge. I just thought taking the housing off would be easier to get at that seal. Maybe I'll just have to keep prying it & if I have to, get it out piece by piece.
I've drilled a couple holes in it, & put in screws used a claw hammer, but the screws just tear out & the seal don't budge.

Nope don't want to knick anything anywhere,

Mike(NEOhio) · May 22, 2015

I only mess with those differential bearing when I absolutely have to. I would be tempted to use my Dremel tool with a rotary burr to cut it into pieces. I did that to get the front wheel bearing seals out of it. I was working on mine today. I had the lower lift arm supports out to change the seals and clean everything out. The old oil had water in it but thankfully all the gears looked real good. Surprising considering how bad some of the other things were. I'm 65 and have a hard time getting under mine, too.

johnnyo · May 22, 2015

Wow, looks like milk.. I'm gonna have to drain a couple of gallons too, because there is some oil coming out of the hole I drilled in the seal, but at least it looks clean.

Mike(NEOhio) · May 22, 2015

I'm going to scan the brake section of my manual and email it to you. Should have it in an hour.

greg oliver · May 22, 2015

John, not sure on how to download waiting for my wife and daughter to come home then I just did it my way! My White American 60 is based on the 1555 trans and rear end and explained a little more about what you would be getting into if you pull the brake housing. As Mike said you don't want to have to pull the housing. The last brake seal I tried to pull was only a few months ago and my buddy ended up heating it with his torch don't know if it was the right way but nothing else worked and didn't want to damage anything with punch and hammer. I still would like to hear of a good way to pull those seals because both my tractors need them changed. First and last photo are the same page so you can see not much help. Greg

johnnyo · May 23, 2015

Thanks Greg. You & Mike are right, I won't be removing the housing. I don't need another problem. I also wish that somebody that has changed these seals successfully & easily would chime in & share their experience & expertise. Surely our seals aren't the only ones that need changing. maybe we got the only tractors with bad seals..lol..

Incidentally, my email in my profile is not right,& I can't seem to be able to change it, or delete it.

J.Wondergem · May 24, 2015

I know this won't help much, but when I put new seals in my 1850, I used two screws opposite of each other, and they both came out. May be your's are Permatexed in or something.

johnnyo · May 24, 2015

(quoted from post at 17:17:27 05/24/15)

I know this won't help much, but when I put new seals in my 1850, I used two screws opposite of each other, and they both came out. May be your's are Permatexed in or something.

Well I got to admit, I never tried that, only 1 screw at a time, (pun not intended), & they pulled out. Putting 2 in makes much ore sense, because the pull be even. Only 1 makes it tighter, because I'm pulling at an angle..
Thanks for your idea.

Don-Wi · May 25, 2015

I've done the screw trick a few times, and only used 1 screw. If you have a slide hammer that can grab on the screw, they pop right out without any fight. I've also just pried on the screw with a bar and they came out easy enough that way too.

When putting the new seals in, it's very easy to trash them. I wrapped the plastic from a pop bottle around the splines and then tapped the seals in place with a chunk of wood or pipe large enough to catch the whole seal. Once the seal is in place, grab the plastic with a pliers and pull it out. Might not hurt to get an extra seal right away, as if the transmission is still full of oil and you wreck a seal, the oil slowly oozes out until it's below the bearing.

Donovan from Wisconsin

greg oliver · May 25, 2015

Thanks Don, we did try a slide hammer and either the screw broke off or pulled thru. It figures because I thought it was going to be a 5 minute job. The guy I was working with started harassing me about not getting it out and I said you try it without scaring the surface where the seals go. He didn't have any luck either and that's why he heated it up. I think we should of pulled the wheel off so we could get at it better but we were all in a hurry! Greg

johnnyo · May 25, 2015

(quoted from post at 23:21:23 05/24/15) I've done the screw trick a few times, and only used 1 screw. If you have a slide hammer that can grab on the screw, they pop right out without any fight. I've also just pried on the screw with a bar and they came out easy enough that way too.

When putting the new seals in, it's very easy to trash them. I wrapped the plastic from a pop bottle around the splines and then tapped the seals in place with a chunk of wood or pipe large enough to catch the whole seal. Once the seal is in place, grab the plastic with a pliers and pull it out. Might not hurt to get an extra seal right away, as if the transmission is still full of oil and you wreck a seal, the oil slowly oozes out until it's below the bearing.

Thanks Don. Don't have a slide hammer, only a claw hammer. Will take another whack at it tomorrow. I left the wheel on, too hard for me to wrestle with it.. Will also drain some fluid out of it before I try again.

Thanks Don. Don't have a slide hammer, only using a claw hammer. gonher wana have anot

Donovan from Wisconsin

Need part # for 1550 Oliver brake seals

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