Oliver 550 won't stay running

angryacres

New User
I'm having an issue with my 550, it will start and run for about 10 minutes then it stalls. If i let it sit for 10 minutes or so it will start and do the same thing again. Its a gas tractor, ive rebuilt the carb, replaced the sediment bowl, coil and wires are new and the plugslook ok. it acts like it is fuel starved and pulling the choke will keep it running a few seconds but not long. i'm kind of at a loss
 

As soon as it dies pull the plug out of the bottom of the Carb and see if its flowing good if not your not getting enough gas. Also as soon as it dies check for spark condensers do some weird things
 
Check that the vent hole on your fuel cap is open. Does fuel flow
freely out of the gas line if you pull it loose after the engine
quits? The carb and fuel line would be very hot if it is vapor
locking.
 
You can check for continuous fuel flow anytime - no need to wait for it to stop. Checking for spark at the plugs would be a better use of time when it stops; there may be more than
one symptom..

Also operating the choke and continuing to run means there is a problem in the fuel system. If could be anywhere from carb back to tank. Easy enough to check for full fuel flow at
each joint, connection, filter. If the vent is the problem opening the fuel cap while it is running will keep it running or an influx of air while loosening same would indicate a partial
vacuum in the tank.

Simple diagnosis is better than guessing.
 
As everyone has said if there is an in
line filter get rid of it right away.
The sediment bowl is designed to take
junk out of the fuel line. Inline
filters are designed for pumped fuel not
gravity feed. As said check for fuel
flow at each joint in system. Re
assemble and run it with at least half a
tank and leave the cap off. If it stays
running the issue is the vent cap. If it
dies check in the tank for anything to
block the fuel flow and check fuel lines
for flow again. If it's all good it's
spark or possible wiring issues. Let us
know what you find. Duane o.
 
With the sediment bowl off turn on the fuel. It should have a double stream about like taking a leak. I had to use compressor to blow mine out. Like has been said. You should have good fuel flow out of carb drain plug. If not pull fuel line from carb and check for good flow. You should be able to clean from sediment bowl to carb and have it back together in 30 min or less.
J
 
I have the day off so i've had some time to work on my 550. There was still fuel in the float bowl when it stalls, i lucked out and found a condenser at Tractor Supply and changed it. it started and stayed running pretty well! it is stalling out when i out it under a load, but I've been adjusting the power valve, i think it was called (the only adjustment on the carb) I set it where the rebuild instructions said to , which was slightly less than the setting of the valve i replaced and its improving with each increasing adjustment. So i think I'm almost there. Thanks for all the help!! i will post again when i have it running perfect.
 
Not sure whats happening now! My 550 started and ran pretty well i parked it to finish it up the next day. Now it won't run at all, seems to be no spark, i'm thinking i should get the proper ignition kit, since the one i used was sort of a generic one size fits all kind of set. the condenser wire had a serious bend in it from when i tightened things down, i must have caught the edge of it. i may have broken thw wire from the condenser. I can't seem to find the proper cap either, everything i find is for a Delco clip held cap and the one on it is an Eichlan screw on cap.
 
I got a similar problem with my 550. It just came back from full tune up with new points, condenser, spark plugs wiring, etc. It ran fine for over an hour
on its own power returning from the repair shop. Two weeks later it started as new and ran for five minutes, then started to miss and stall, with barely
enough power to run, hot or cold. I changed the fuel filter, made sure there was a good flow to the carb, try adjusting the high screw of the carb,
changed the spark plugs again, but it kept running idle near stalling until the battery ran out, probably because the generator was not spinning fast
enough to recharge the battery.

Should I check to see if that the new tune up kit I had a bad condenser too ?

Thanks

Martin
 
I would suggest you also check for oil contamination on the cam shaft inside the distributor. If the oil seal fails, oil traces on the electrical contacts is enough to prevent any sparks. As you found out, if your distributor is not a Delco, the tune up kit components (including the condenser) are different and don't mix and match with Eichlan parts. If you can't find Eichan parts, remember that a used Delco distributor drive (clip on) can be found on Ebay for about 50$.

In short, no sparks if it ran well one day and not the next, it may be oil contamination inside the distributor, incompatible ignition parts that failed and also some some carb deposit that decided to plug the jets ports, or both.

Good luck
 
(quoted from post at 04:10:30 05/25/15) I got a similar problem with my 550. It just came back from full tune up with new points, condenser, spark plugs wiring, etc. It ran fine for over an hour
on its own power returning from the repair shop. Two weeks later it started as new and ran for five minutes, then started to miss and stall, with barely
enough power to run, hot or cold. I changed the fuel filter, made sure there was a good flow to the carb, try adjusting the high screw of the carb,
changed the spark plugs again, but it kept running idle near stalling until the battery ran out, probably because the generator was not spinning fast
enough to recharge the battery.

Should I check to see if that the new tune up kit I had a bad condenser too ?
Thanks
Martin
Following my mechanic advise, I first changed the fuel filter, got the carb fully cleaned (it was full of jelly like stuff), change the spark plugs and ... It kept running erratically and choking up. I found a screwdriver small enough to change the ignition condenser and ... EUREKA !!! the engine is suddenly running smoothly with minimal carb adjustments. Thanks to the carb cleaning, exhaust no longer has black smoke (likely running too rich when it was dirty).

Conclusion: I would never had suspected that a defective brand new 5$ ignition condenser could make such difference without reading this posting. Thanks a lot !!!
 

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